Discover London’s top steak restaurants with Squaremeal’s guide to the best steak restaurants in London. Steak has long been a favourite choice of dish when dining out, and over recent years London has seen an influx of first class steak restaurants opening up. There are so many kinds of steak to choose from these days, from fillet to rump and sirloin to rib eye, and so many kinds of beef too, from Angus to Hereford and USDA to Wagyu. Steak restaurants are judged by the quality of the cut and the cooking techniques and the competition is fierce.
Squaremeal’s list of the top steak restaurants in London features some of the very best the capital has to offer. From sleek NYC style North American restaurants to traditional British restaurants and stylish Argentinean restaurants to classic steakhouses, London is a destination city for a prime steak.
Every one of the steak restaurants featured in Squaremeal’s list of London’s top steak restaurants have been tried and tested by food critics and our own customers so check out the reviews and book a table online with Squaremeal today. As well as the restaurants on this page, we have listings for steak restaurants in the West End, including Mayfair and Covent Garden and steak restaurants in the City along with steak restaurants in many other areas of London. Each Squaremeal listing features an independent review, as well as reviews from diners, together with unique special offers such as free drinks and discounts.
£50 - £79
Steak
British
11 Langley Street, London, WC2H 9JG
“The best steak in London, by a mile”, declares one reader, and we have to agree. The beefy Hawksmoor chain somehow manages to get everything right, from its glorious 35-day-aged steaks supplied by The Ginger Pig to its creative cocktails – all presented by staff with a genuine passion for service. It's easy to understand why there are now six branches in the capital (and another in Manchester), though this atmospheric site in the old barrel-vaulted Watney Combe Brewery is one of our favourites. Start with Old Spot belly ribs or sweetly caramelised roast scallops with white port and garlic, before taking your pick of the beefy cuts chalked up by weight on blackboards. Perfectly crisp triple-cooked chips, gut-busting macaroni cheese or grilled bone marrow make happy companions, but we urge saving some space for the addictive salted caramel Rolos too. The comfortable bar deals in burgers and lobster rolls as well as brilliant drinks, though between the hours of 3pm and 5pm Monday-Friday, you can dine from the full a la carte menu when booking in advance. Sunday lunch sees roast rump of Longhorn beef with all the trimmings for Sunday lunch. “Great for big groups and for couples”, notes one fan.
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Maze Grill Mayfair
£50 - £79
North American
Steak
10-13 Grosvenor Square, London, W1K 6JP
The Maze Grill concept now inhabits two more reinvented Ramsay sites across town, but the Mayfair original still competes in a steak-crazy marketplace by refusing to slobber over down 'n' dirty juices. This is meat you eat with a knife and fork, in a room that's a symphony in taupe, on a square that has as much romance as history. With Maze next door, it's no surprise that sushi creeps onto the menu, along with iceberg salads, simple grilled fish and other warm-up acts. The main event is steak from a variety of sources (native British, USDA, Japanese etc), cooked in the charcoal-burning Josper oven and offered with all-American sides including onion rings and mac 'n' cheese. Breakfasts of ricotta hotcakes and eggs Benedict are also worth knowing about. As for the vibe, some detractors brand it more "prissy London chophouse" than NYC.
£30 - £49
Steak
2 St Anne's Court, London, W1F 0AZ
The group behind Goodman, Beast and Burger & Lobster has named its Rex & Mariano replacement after its founder, Mikhail ‘Misha’ Zelman. Offering a laid-back steakhouse vibe, Zelman serves up daily-changing cuts of USDA Black Angus beef. Starters and sides dishes meanwhile focus on seasonal vegetables but we're not sure most diners will notice, as they'll be busy devouring piles of meat.
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£30 - £49
International
7-8 Eccleston Yards, London, SW1W 9NF
You’ll find this cutesy sibling to Shoreditch’s Jones Family Project in the stylish Eccleston Yards development, a location which gives it a rare-for-Belgravia courtyard terrace. The restaurant’s concept is that diners are being welcomed in to the Jones’s family home. It sounds horribly gimmicky, but somehow it feels charming rather than contrived. Expect to find a basket of tennis balls holding the front door open and the likes of cousin Katy who ‘always travels with a bunch of grapes’ appearing on the wine list.
House speciality steaks are sourced from Yorkshire farmer and butcher The Ginger Pig, aged for 28 days and served to medium-rare tender succulence. Hearty sides include an indulgent truffle mac ‘n’ cheese and a crisp pot of fries. Uber-fresh burrata, drizzled with a Cabernet Sauvignon dressing that adds a real depth of flavour, or a deeply smoky cut of octopus cooked in a sweet cider glaze, are there if you want something before your steak, and there’s black pepper panna cotta served with Prosecco-drenched figs to finish.
Attentive staff and a strong selection of international whiskies are further draws at a Belgravia newcomer free from the area’s air and graces.
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£30 - £49
Steak
Italian
38-40 Exmouth Market
, London, EC1R 4QE
A haven for enthusiastic carnivores, this casual Italian displays a butcher’s block in the dining room and slabs of beef and whole tunas swinging in the windows. RC (Roberto Costa) sold a restaurant chain in his native Italy before opening Macellaio RC South Kensington in 2012, specialising in Fassone beef from Piedmont. Exmouth Market adds Sicilian tuna to the mix, and the surf & turf approach informs the entire menu: from cicchetti of fried egg with sliced salted tuna, and Fassone head meat with dandelion salad, to tuna and beef tartare, and a choice of tagliata and sirloin steaks. Some dishes combine both (think rigatoni with guanciale and tuna), but the consensus is that Macellaio’s five-week dry-aged Fassone sirloin is the star. Sprinkled with Tuscan olive oil and rock salt, the meat possesses firm yet silky texture and drips with flavour. Equally rewarding is latte dolce fritto to finish (thick, deep-fried cream) and the lengthy, all-Italian wine list. Whichever way you like your steak, you won’t be disappointed here.
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£30 - £49
Gastropub
63-69 Canonbury Road, London, N1 2DG
Part of a wee gang of three covering N1 and EC2 (The Pig & Butcher and The Princess of Shoreditch being the other two), the Smokehouse is a gastropub through and through. It doesn’t open until 5pm Monday to Friday, yet despite the lack of daytime hours it is definitely a pub, with a stonking range of beers by draught and bottle – including a great showing from London. There’s a highly serviceable European-based wine list too. Rustic-chic is the order of the day when it comes to the decor, with plenty of wood and a verdant patio garden. But although you’ll find hearty smoky dishes on the menu to match, the food is actually rather refined, with the kitchen producing foie gras ganache with peaches and granola alongside the Highland cow-burger with Korean pulled pork, or smoked lamb shoulder with polenta. We also found a genuine passion for provenance here.
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£30 - £49
North American
1 The Avenue, Devonshire Square, EC2M 4YP
With the relocation from a Soho shoebox to an airy Spitalfields dining room, Pitt Cue’s surroundings now match its burning ambitions. This barbecue Mecca gained a strong following in W1 for its smoky cuts of high-quality meat, and although much shabby character has been sacrificed in moving, the benefits of this open-plan, industrial-chic site are evident. The restaurant now offers reservations, cocktails and impeccable bar snacks (we recommend Mangalitsa ham and walnuts) – as well as meat seared on the huge, gleaming grill displayed at the end of the room. Sourcing is key, with all beef coming from a single Cornish supplier and bread baked in-house. Infectiously enthusiastic staff made us want to order everything: from unmissable, yeasty fat-dripping bread, to crisp scrumpet (a pork-filled disc fried in breadcrumbs) with a slick of apple sauce. We were however disappointed with our mains, cured and smoked pork jowl consisting almost entirely of fat, disguising the slivers of beautifully pink, tasty flesh; and smoked beef neck was dry at its edges, and supremely salty. Nevertheless, there are many positives: Pitt Cue excels at smaller plates and sides (mushroom and bone-marrow mash was a highlight); main-menu prices are reasonable (though specials will significantly grill your bill); and the drinks list holds interest aplenty via Mezcal Martinis, bourbons and sparkling Australian Rieslings. The trump cards here are service and atmosphere, and as this new site beds in we expect food quality to improve. Already, walk-in tables are highly sought after, so it’s best to book.
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£50 - £79
Steak
2-3 Threadneedle Walk, 60 Threadneedle Street, London, EC2R 8HP
Bold in scale, ambition and outlook, Martin Williams’ multifaceted restaurant is a hotbed of unashamed consumption – from its full-throttle cellar to the meat room lit up like a boutique window: “the layout lets you see and be seen”, notes one reader (we advise using the online ‘table tour’ to pick your preferred spot). Beyond the buzz, there’s good food to be had, so prepare to be surprised by a selection of “rare dishes cooked to perfection”. The ‘raw’ menu might yield red prawns with black curry, coconut gel and coconut crumble or smoked Wagyu tartare with apples and foie gras, while grills are (for the most part) a steak-collector’s delight – at a price. Martin Williams used to run Gaucho, which explains why Argentinean rump and an international ‘kilo’ board are offered alongside Japanese kobe fillet at £1 per gram. “Personable, well-intended service” gets the nod, and cocktails come “highly recommended”.
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£30 - £49
Steak
17 Beak Street, London, W1F 9RW
As the price of steak and chips in London nudges inexorably closer to three figures, it’s reassuring to find a credible joint that cheerfully does the business for a tenner. This one-time Shoreditch pop-up turned Soho hit has quite literally made its name with the ‘flat iron’ steak (a ‘secondary’ cut taken from the featherblade). The menu may be minimal, but that doesn’t make choosing any easier: horseradish or béarnaise sauce; creamed spinach or blue cheese salad; craft beer or spicy house red? The special burger is also a must if it’s advertised. Otherwise, the eponymous steaks are tender, flavoursome and seasoned with a wallop, though it seems churlish to quibble at these prices. Cramped communal seating and no reservations are a drag, but the downstairs cocktail bar more than makes amends.
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£30 - £49
Steak
Argentinian
40-42 Middlesex Street, London, E1 7EX
The Square Mile is fuelled by steak but this newcomer has a warmth and homeliness often absent from the City’s more corporate-focused steakhouses. This has less to do with the standard-issue masculine, moody interior – think dark wood tables and deep red leather banquettes – and a lot to do with the incredibly friendly staff. The restaurant is run by a team of three brothers who’ll greet you like an old friend and perhaps even take shots with you at the end of your meal.
Free-range prime Argentinian beef arrives from a central charcoal grill as marbled, smoky ribeye and lean and tender rump, among other cuts. Pep up your steak with sauces such as béarnaise or chimichurri and add sides such as sweet potato fries and mac ‘n’ cheese. It’s not all about the steaks though, with other options including chicken escalope with salsa and cheese, slow-cooked short ribs and a peppering of veggie and vegan dishes such as grilled aubergine with brown miso, couscous, chilli and spinach.
Fiendishly sugary desserts include Nutella-stuffed crêpes topped with vanilla ice cream and heavenly dulce de leche, while the Argentinean-focused wine list has a good showing of Malbec. There’s a G&T menu too, featuring 16 different kinds of gin.
Reasonable pricing, a buzzy atmosphere and a handy location just a few minutes’ walk from Liverpool Street make Bife a worthy City pit stop for a steak, and is a restaurant where you’ll truly feel welcomed, whether you’re suited and booted or not.
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£50 - £79
Steak
Argentinian
25 Swallow Street, London, W1B 4QR
This ‘typically slick’ branch of the upmarket, Argentinian-themed group still pulls in the diners thanks to its high-visibility location, four floors of carousing opportunities & fine summertime terrace. It’s a striking-looking place, dressed in Gaucho’s signature get-up of chandeliers, black leather & cowhide, with love-or-hate nightclub acoustics & moody lighting. The menu isn’t all about beef – there are brightly flavoured ceviches, spatchcock chicken & lamb chops, too – but the most famous dishes are the ones to order: a selection of pasty-like empanadas followed by steak done any which way. Prices (around £25 a slab) aren’t the most intimidating in town but, with sauces & sides to pay for, the result may be ‘decent – not wow’, an impression reinforced by ‘efficient’ but ‘stressed’ staff. Finish in style with a cocktail in the bar.
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£30 - £49
British
Kings Place, 90 York Way, London, N1 9AG
Long before Coal Drops Yard upped King’s Cross’s cool factor, Rotunda was drawing in the crowds with its farm-to-table ethos and charming canal-side terrace. The restaurant underwent refurbishment in the summer of 2018 and while most of the cosmetic changes are subtle (splashes of orange in the colour scheme, a new hanging cabinet on display near the entrance), the biggest difference is the introduction of a buzzy chef’s counter. With much of the kitchen moved from downstairs into the restaurant, diners can now watch the chefs at work, while asking for their cooking tips of course.
Rotunda makes full use of its owner’s farm in Northumberland, while all beef and lamb on the menu is dry-aged, hung and butchered on site. Seasonally changing specials are also a fixture: on our visit, we devoured a tremendously decadent baked camembert, drizzled with honey and truffle oil and served with St John bread.
The kitchen’s commitment to process is evidenced in triumphs such as the 8oz beef burger. So often an uninspiring choice on restaurant menus, this perfectly cooked burger is gratifyingly greasy without overdoing it and is complemented by toppings of smoked bacon and Ogleshield cheese. If you’d rather eat fish, try the likes of fleshy, citrusy grilled Cornish scallops slathered in seaweed butter and topped with crispy samphire.
Things get a little odd come dessert, with some rather random combinations on offer (blueberry Eccles cake with espresso coffee choc pot anyone?). Nonetheless, our more conventional chocolate and almond lava cake with cherry compote was a warm, comforting end to a delicious meal.
Friendly staff and a fairly-priced wine list are further reasons to take a trip to King’s Place – it might have more competition now, but Rotunda’s still got it.
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£30 - £49
Steak
British
311-313 Fulham Road, SW10 9QH
Good for sober midweek dining as well as Friday-night revelling, this Fulham Road fixture made its name with British beef, and the kitchen now butchers and dry-ages all its carcasses. Crowds continue to pack the conservatively cool space, with its blood-red banquettes and stripped brickwork – although we were expecting more finesse in the presentation of Sophie's headline steaks and burgers. Elsewhere, the kitchen excels with vibrant starters of hand-picked crab with coriander, while puds keep it traditional with fruit crumble and cheesecake. The weekday express menu is cracking value, and well-drilled staff are helpful when it comes to the carefully chosen wine list.
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£50 - £79
North American
Steak
26 Maddox Street, London, W1S 1QH
The Goodman chain may have arrived here from Russia, but the whole package is ‘as close to an American steakhouse as you can get', says one admirer who loves its stylish, fun-loving vibe and clubby intimacy – think polished mahogany, leather booths and monochrome scenes of 1950s' Americana. Take your time as ‘brilliant' staff proffer free bread and talk you through the various slabs of raw protein from the in-house ageing room: ‘exceptional beef’ is the deal, with prime cuts from the UK and US backed by highly ranked burgers – plus some luxurious crustacea. Classy starters such as lobster cocktail are worth a punt, ridiculously seductive truffle chips add that ‘special something’, and there are indulgent cinnamon-dusted doughnuts to finish. Prices take no prisoners, but most readers clamour for more – particularly with the promise of cult American reds to quaff.
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£30 - £49
International
69-73 St John Street, London, EC1M 4AY
Foxlow is the kind of joint that every neighbourhood should have. Friendly service, a relaxed atmosphere and crowd-pleasing dishes are hallmarks of this mini-chain, which is a spin-off from the mighty Hawksmoor dynasty set up by Will Beckett and Huw Gott. The duo have a knack for creating venues with shared style, but without cookie-cutter sameness, giving each branch of Foxlow a unique character. Menus major on popular chicken and steak options - think finger-licking Tamworth spare ribs with green slaw, a juicy chicken burger with avocado, and perfectly cooked sirloin steak with fries and béarnaise - plus interesting veggie choices, such as spice-roasted cauliflower with chickpeas, wilted spinach and curried aubergine sauce. Separate kids’ menus, good value express deals (two courses for £12) and the popular brunch menu score further points with readers; with one fan declaring it “the best brunch ever!” Drinks meanwhile range from creative softs, like fresh grapefruit soda, to craft beers and well-priced wines. Meanwhile cocktails, including the Hawksmoor classic Shaky Pete’s Ginger Brew, are impeccably made.
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British
The Ned, 27 Poultry, London, EC2R 8AJ
Formerly members-only, this formal steakhouse at Soho House’s gargantuan hotel and dining complex, The Ned, is now open to the public. An air of old-school clubbiness pervades the dining room: a wood-panelled former bank manager’s office populated by green leather chairs and chesterfields. ‘Cardinal’s hat’-style lighting (of the type designed by architect Edwin Lutyens) illuminates the place. As the name suggests, the main menu is all about grills – from pork cutlets, lobsters and Shorthorn rib-eyes to vast 1kg T-bones to share (with appropriate sauces all round) – though you can also opt for daily roasts carved from perambulating trolleys (think rack of veal or salmon en croûte). Our choice, Hereford rib-eye, was juicy and tender, and we can also recommend the side dishes: creamy dauphinois potatoes, roasted portobello mushrooms and crisp, golden chips. For dessert, the ‘chocolate nemesis’ may well be your diet’s enemy, but the gooey bar of thick chocolate served with refreshing pomegranate ice cream is worth the calories. Big-ticket wines from around the globe suit the clubby atmosphere, and there’s also an enterprising choice of beers: try the local Hoxton Stout or Brick Lane lager. Attentive staff, a slick atmosphere and a well-heeled menu ensure Lutyens Grill is perfectly matched to its suited-and-booted City clientele.
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£30 - £49
British
28-30 Rivington Street, London, EC2A 3DZ
The third site for wildly successfully Blacklock is housed in a New York loft-style space a short walk from Old Street station.
Anyone who’s visited the Blacklocks in Soho and the City will know the drill. Kickstart your meal with the pre-chop bites, which consist of three bite-size crackers, stacked with egg and a curl of salted anchovy, a hunk of cheese topped with pickle, and chicken dusted with shreds of strong horseradish.
From the starters proper, we loved the tangy pig’s head on toast, a messy mush of meat topped with sharp gherkins and chillies, and served with a boat of thick gravy. For the main event, Blacklock’s signature ‘all-in’ option remains a must-order: a perfectly cooked, vigorously seasoned stack of beef, lamb and pork chops served atop fluffy, herb-flecked flatbreads which soak up the meat juices.
Desserts add to Blacklock’s homely feel with a vanilla cheesecake served tableside out of a tray. It’s the ultimate indulgence, a crumbly base of crushed Digestives topped with cloud-like levels of fluffiness and curls of white chocolate.
Genuinely friendly staff add to the homely vibe, as too a real mix of diners, from suited business folk to couples on dates and families with young children. Blacklock’s mass appeal is a key part of its success, and with its democratic prices and fun vibe, it truly has something for everyone… except vegetarians.
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Over £80
North American
45 Park Lane, London, W1K 1PN
Cut stands out from the steakhouse crowd thanks to its Park Lane pricing, glammed-up globe-trotting clientele and the clout of A-list chef Wolfgang Puck. Provided you’re financially prepared, you’ll find a surprisingly unpretentious vibe in the very attractive (if hotel-ish) dining room, where soaring drapes and wood panelling head northwards to a ceiling hung with starburst lights. Service could be slicker, but the kitchen pulls out all the stops to justify the prices. Cuts of USDA Prime, South Devon Angus, New York sirloin and dizzyingly expensive Wagyu are presented in all their raw marbled glory before being returned to the table charred and crusted from the grill. Sides include wickedly buttery potato purée and glistening nuggets of bone marrow, while top-notch starters range from maple-glazed pork belly to a very pretty crab and lobster cocktail with spicy tomato horseradish. Desserts, should you get that far, are all-American sweet treats. Upstairs, Bar 45 dispenses classy concoctions in large glasses.
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£50 - £79
Steak
Spanish
Cordy House, 95 Curtain Road, London, EC2A 3BS
Massively popular in Spain, the Sagardi steakhouse chain has chosen Shoreditch to open its first London branch. But this is no routine grilled-beef joint – the gastronomic hotspot of The Basque Country provides the culinary know-how behind the menu. The capacious dining room can seat more than 140, yet the dark-wood and slate interiors and leather-clad benches produce a warm, inviting atmosphere. As do the staff, who are keen to provide pairing suggestions for each course from the Basque-focused wine list. Charcuterie and pintxos (Basque tapas) account for starters. We began with moreish ham croquettes, plus some spicy grilled morcilla (black pudding) before the main act. Txuletón is what to order here: steak from cattle that are at least six years old, which is then seared on a Basque-style grill (over an oak-wood fire). The massive 800g cut we enjoyed is initially served medium-rare, with staff happy to cook it for longer if required – but our beautifully tender slab needed no extra grill-time. Sides of spiced potato wedges and salad make ideal accompaniments. Grilled fish is also an option, and the list of ‘grandma’s home cooking’ Basque dishes shouldn’t be ignored: braised lamb’s trotters in Biscay sauce, perhaps. Desserts stick to Basque country traditions too, and we loved the melt-in-the-mouth goxua sponge cake. Is there space for another steakhouse chain in London? Given Sagardi’s singular contribution to the genre our answer is ‘yes’ – or, as the Basques would say, ‘bai!’
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Over £80
Steak
International
Fish
3 Chapel Place, W1G 0BG
A basement revellers’ hall with gleaming candelabra and endless wooden tables channelling medieval feasting (especially during bonus season for City boys), Beast is Goodman’s tribute to high-rolling surf ’n’ turf. It was all change in 2016, though, with the fixed-price option of nibbles, king crab and steak jettisoned in favour of a steakhouse-style, all-day menu that’s priced no less ruinously. Still, you get what you pay for; witness the free glass of vintage fizz on arrival, the blue-tinged tanks of gargantuan, prehistoric-looking king crabs and an aging room of long-shrivelled Nebraskan beef. It’s all top-end stuff, but unimpressed visitors (ourselves included) feel the place is “nothing special” and “overpriced for what it is”, with ancillary items such as Wagyu tataki, shrimp tempura, and crab and foie gras gyozas eliciting little praise. Wines (from £40 a bottle) are no less punishing, while service strikes us as directionless.
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£50 - £79
North American
77 Brewer Street, London, W1F 9ZN
“If you love steak, go to MASH and enjoy” implores a devotee who worships at this Danish shrine to meat, which sprawls along beneath Soho’s pavements. With its racing-red leather, the odd art-deco flourish and high ceilings, the grand dining room is an appropriately capacious space in which to indulge voracious appetites, while the menu owes more to American traditions than Danish – witness mighty crab cakes with mango chutney to start, and heavy sides of mac ’n’ cheese or onion rings. Top billing goes to the Danish crown (a dry-aged rib-eye), but also look for new arrivals such as (comparatively) cheaper Uruguayan steak in a variety of cuts, alongside top-dollar Kobe, Black Angus, Australian and Nebraskan beef. The wine list is equally cosmopolitan with certain pricier bottles accessible by the glass, all overseen by master sommelier Jess Kildetoft. Prices are in line with the London steakhouse norm, while Sundays mean BYOB with no corkage.
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£50 - £79
International
34 Grosvenor Square (Entrance on South Audley St), London, W1K 2HD
Promising British hospitality at its finest, 34 is testament to the “slick”, “five-star” hospitality that marks out the Caprice Holdings stable. From the top-hatted doorman outside this former bank to the timeless art deco-style interiors – think table lamps, brown leather banquettes and a marble bar – every bit of the consummate experience is “perfectly executed”, cocktails included. The grill menu has steak at its heart, but also does a mean line in seafood – our sprightly lobster, shrimp and sea bass ceviche was a judiciously spiced appetiser for the oncoming meat fest. Yorkshire heritage breeds and top-end Wagyu both feature prominently, but it’s worth doffing your cap to the nearby American Embassy and opting for the USDA Prime chateaubriand – a glorious, “succulent”, hunk of beef for two served with truffle gravy and mushrooms. If you have space for dessert, a chocolatey peanut-butter crunch bar with blackcurrant sorbet is simple but satisfying. Dapper, ever-attentive staff earn due praise, and the sommelier is full of great recommendations (in our case, a gorgeous Los Vascos Grande Reserve 2012 Rothschild). High prices reflect the postcode, but fans reckon 34 is “worth every penny”.
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£50 - £79
Scottish
Steak
£50 - £79
15 Eccleston Street, London, SW1W 9LX
Boasting tartan chairs, kilted waitresses, hunting trophies and a selection of whisky to make any crofter sing, Boisdale of Belgravia clearly isn’t shy of trumpeting its Scottish heritage. There’s plenty of Caledonian flag-waving on the menu too, from haggis in various guises (try the mustardy Scotch egg riff with neeps ’n’ tatties) to beef from Buccleuch Estate, salmon, “wonderful” oysters and seasonal game. With classic sauces such as béarnaise and green peppercorn to go with steaks “cooked exactly as requested”, it’s not exactly cutting-edge stuff, but the jolly crowd are mainly here to enjoy themselves in surroundings that make them feel as if they’ve “stepped back in time”. Many scoot upstairs for a snifter whilst smoking something from the walk-in humidor after they’ve eaten; nearly all stay for the easy, lively jazz session that kicks in at 10pm. It can seem a tad expensive, but no one seems to mind.
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£30 - £49
Argentinian
9 Duke Street, London, W1U 3EG
Readers love the “great, relaxed atmosphere” conjured at this little patch of Argentina – and we’re fans too. Space is at a premium, with an open kitchen counter in the basement and a long bar with more seating above, but what Zoilo lacks in wide horizons, it makes up for in punchy flavours and cross-country variety. It’s all about the small plates, so commit to an empanada or three while you navigate the menu: bubbling provolone cheese, its farmyard notes offset with oregano honey, has been a hit since day one; from here it’s a brief hop to rib-eye with intensely garlicky chips, grilled lamb chops with green pea and morel ragù or grilled octopus with black tomatoes, Jersey royals and pickled mussel mayo. The sweet tooth of a nation is reflected in a changing roster of dulce de leche desserts, and the all-Argentinean wine list aids exploration.
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£30 - £49
British
32 Rivington Street, London, EC2A 3LX
Curious passers-by peer through the window to catch a glimpse of Damien Hirst’s ‘Cock and Bull’ installation housed in chef/art collector Mark Hix’s Tramshed. They should brave it and go on in; allcomers are welcome at this cavernous industrial space where Hix serves seriously sourced chicken and steak – crowd-pleasers both – to solo diners at the bar, rowdy parties in capacious booths, and everyone in between. In less capable hands, Tramshed would be a fail-safe ‘yawn’ of a concept, but Hix’s menu goes beyond salt-aged Glenarm beef and roast barn-reared chooks into lively international territory. To wit, whipped chicken livers served with an enormous duck-fat Yorkshire pud (as a British alternative to brioche), American-style bone-in rib and slaw, a fearsomely hot curry, and a no-airs-and-graces raspberry cheesecake – not that anything will lure the lunchtime crowd away from their steak sandwiches. Wines and cocktails are credible rather than posey.
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