Hawksmoor Wood Wharf

If you’re going to grow your brand from one east London site to a small UK-wide empire, consistency is key. Hawksmoor has managed to retain that illusive family feel on a grand scale at its largest site, it's restaurant-cum-barge in the heart of the financial district. The success is all in the detail, from the warmth of the service to the quality of the ingredients. 

The inescapable suited crowd of Canary Wharf keep the dining room and bar below bustling even on a Wednesday night, and despite the lean towards work dinners there’s a buzz that’s infectious. No doubt helped along merrily by the excellent cocktail menu. 

A table groaning under the weight of what can only be described as death by a thousand sides is exactly what we came for. There’s plump lobster drowned in garlic butter; crisp and salty beef dripping fries; nutmeg-rich creamed spinach (for a token nod to our long-forgotten friend, the veg); silky Bearnaise sauce and a gravy that hides little lumps of marrow under its smooth service, which eventually melt over your meat to intensify its beefy flavour.

The sides are some of the best you’ll find anywhere, but they are all just supporting acts for the star of the show. The steak’s etched up on the board allowing you to choose your perfect size and style - until things run out - and on our visit resulted in a T-bone being presented to us (in its very own, adorable mini Staub cast iron pan). There’s a dark, salty crust and meat that’s robustly flavoured. It’s thick and cut into fat, blushing pink slices ready to pop into your mouth in a couple of greedy bites.

There’s nothing new here, nothing clever. But there’s absolute infatuation with the best ingredients and nailing the classics which makes it the kind of food that will never date. We don't want to come across too evangelical, but it's heaven. May God bless the Hawksmoor barge and all who sail in her.

Following in the footsteps of previously successful sites, Hawksmoor Canary Wharf (or Hawksmoor Wood Wharf if we're giving it its proper title) is a 150-cover dining destination in the heart of the financial district.

Hawksmoor Wood Wharf is the first opening for the brand in four years and is simultaneously its largest ever site. Aside from the restaurant seating, there will also be a 120-cover bar, with both indoor and outdoor spaces for guests to choose between.

While the menu of steaks and sides might be familiar, the setting is a whole new concept. Hawksmoor Wood Wharf is found in an eco-friendly floating pavilion built by Glenn Howells Architects. As well as being constructed from sustainably sourced timber and aluminium extracted from hydro sourced, the roof is also planted with lush wildflowers and grasses designed to help bees and insects thrive and pollinate.

The interiors feature a series of banquette seating and round tables as well as corner booths. With a double height ceiling and a sprawling bar the space feels generous and lively, while the hanging pendant lights add a contemporary twist.

As with other sites, the menu here focuses on steaks from traditionally reared cattle, cooked over real charcoal, served with classic sauces. Infamous sides like the golden, crunchy beef dripping fries and the creamed spinach ensure all the favourites are covered for loyal fans of the brand. Non-meat-eaters are also catered for by way of fish and vegetarian options like native lobster or ricotta dumplings with a watercress puree and girolles.

While prices here aren’t cheap – think the £35 mark for a steak – the ingredients used are top-class. The restaurant group has been committed to environmentally sound practices for over a decade now, supporting biodiverse British farms that follow regenerative practices. This approach has help win Hawksmoor the highest rating from The Sustainable Restaurant Association.

At the bar guests can expect a line-up of traditional cocktails served in stylish glassware and a range of nibbles.