Hawksmoor Borough

Hawksmoor’s immense success over the past 20 years is a story for the books. The premium steakhouse's award-winning formula of 35-day aged British steaks and super-luxe sides has propelled it across three countries and seven global cities, although the brand’s dominance remains resolutely in London, with this Borough location forming six of a seven-strong line-up in the capital.

The restaurant is nestled inside a former hops and fruit warehouse on the edge of Borough Market, all wooden accents, leather seating and ambient low lighting. The dining room is large, and any other steak restaurant would likely have a hard time filling this many seats, but not Hawksmoor. We join a steadily forming queue before it officially opens at midday, and once we’re inside, the dining room soon thrums with business folk, meat-lovers and keen tourists looking to try its signature cuts and sides.

Hawksmoor’s USP is sustainable steak and seafood – don't come here if you’re looking for a light lunch. Signature starters include thick slices of charred sourdough smeared with bone marrow and fried onions, which you're invited to pile on yourself. Those aforementioned high-welfare steaks are excellent, and as dearly priced as you’d expect, so tread carefully when ordering anything priced by weight. Still, meltingly soft slices of Chateaubriand and juicy, fatty sirloin are cooked to blushing perfection, and even better when drowned in a pool of rich bone marrow gravy.

Gutsy sides and puds complete the Hawksmoor experience. We went for its signature sticky toffee pudding, a glistening dome of moist date sponge, toffee sauce and clotted cream.

Arguably, it’s hard to put a foot wrong with crowd-pleasing fare like this, and playing to its strengths, Hawksmoor’s playbook hasn’t changed much over the years. Still, why fix something that ain’t broke?

The Dickensian lanes around foodie mecca Borough Market make an apt setting for Hawksmoor, the chain which offers a contemporary take on the traditional British steakhouse. A moment for some history about this particular London branch, which is housed inside a former hops warehouse that was then repurposed as a fruit warehouse and auction hall in 1932. Our favourite iteration by far has got to be this one, where some of the best steaks in London are served amidst art-deco interiors.  

Hawksmoor Borough is a typically old-school affair and you’ll find the rich wooden surfaces, leather seating and cosy lighting that is present in all its restaurants. The well-stocked bar is almost as central to its offering as the steaks, where a host of expert mixologists craft a list of unique cocktails.  

Diners can opt to dine from a variety of menus, from sharing and set options to an epic Sunday roast. For a classic Hawksmoor experience though, the a la carte menu is where you’ll find a host of high-quality steaks, sauces and sides, alongside a handful of seafood dishes. Make a dent in the menu via a couple of starters, such as Old Spot belly ribs with vinegar slaw, bone marrow with onions on toast and smoked mackerel salad. On to the steaks, which vary in cut and size depending on how hungry you are! Whether it’s a T-bone between two or a superb fillet, all can be ordered alongside sauces (think anchovy hollandaise and bone marrow gravy) and sides. In fact, Hawksmoor is well known for its long list of side dishes which includes things like macaroni cheese, creamed spinach and mash and gravy.  

On Sundays, don’t miss Hawksmoor’s mighty roast offering which includes a serving of slow roast rump with beef dripping roast potatoes, Yorkshire puddings, carrots, greens, roasted shallots and garlic and bone marrow and onion gravy.