SquareMeal Review of Lutyens Grill at The Ned
Formerly members-only, this formal steakhouse at Soho House’s gargantuan hotel and dining complex, The Ned, is now open to the public.
An air of old-school clubbiness pervades the dining room: a wood-panelled former bank manager’s office populated by green leather chairs and chesterfields. ‘Cardinal’s hat’-style lighting (of the type designed by architect Edwin Lutyens) illuminates the place.
As the name suggests, the main menu is all about grills – from pork cutlets, lobsters and Shorthorn rib-eyes to vast 1kg T-bones to share (with appropriate sauces all round) – though you can also opt for daily roasts carved from perambulating trolleys (think rack of veal or salmon en croûte). Our choice, Hereford rib-eye, was juicy and tender, and we can also recommend the side dishes: creamy dauphinois potatoes, roasted portobello mushrooms and crisp, golden chips.
For dessert, the ‘chocolate nemesis’ may well be your diet’s enemy, but the gooey bar of thick chocolate served with refreshing pomegranate ice cream is worth the calories. Big-ticket wines from around the globe suit the clubby atmosphere, and there’s also an enterprising choice of beers: try the local Hoxton Stout or Brick Lane lager. Attentive staff, a slick atmosphere and a well-heeled menu ensure Lutyens Grill is perfectly matched to its suited-and-booted City clientele.
About Lutyens Grill at The Ned
Upmarket steakhouse Lutyens Grill is the only restaurant on The Ned’s ground floor that is housed inside its own room, away from the noise and daily live music of the crowded lobby. That is because this space, which was used as a Bank Manager’s office once upon a time, was previously only open to Soho House members and hotel guests. Shortly after The Ned’s grand opening though, Lutyens was made accessible to the public, and boy are we glad that is the case.
The intimate room has a real air of grandeur, thanks to old-school clubby interiors such as wood-paneled walls, emerald green leather chairs and a hand-painted privacy screen in the corner. Lutyens is open daily for lunch and dinner, and the restaurant’s traditional feel is compounded by its menu of steaks, fish and beef Wellington, which is carved table-side from a trolley (only available at lunchtime).
To begin your meal, you can order from a selection of starters that includes smoked haddock souffle topped with black truffle shavings and a wedge of iceberg lettuce topped with bacon bits and blue cheese. The main courses are just as decadent and choosing one of Lutyens steaks is the obvious choice – you can either pick the likes of ribeye and sirloin cuts which have been sourced from the British Isles, or you can choose from a selection of international varieties, such as Australian Wagyu or an Iberico pork chop.
The indulgence doesn’t stop there either, with tempting dessert offerings including a golden syrup sponge with lemon custard and a baked Alaska to share paired with Earl Grey ice cream. There is always a cake of the day too, which you can enjoy a slice of and ask your serve to pair it with a dessert wine from the restaurant’s impressive list.