London’s best game restaurants: A guide to the Glorious Twelfth

To the uninitiated, 12 August may well seem like any other summer’s day, ideally enjoyed outside on a grassy field soaking up the sunshine. To countryside folk though, this date in August is one of the highlights of the social calendar - that is because 12 August, otherwise known as The Glorious Twelfth, marks the official start of Britain’s shooting season.

The shooting season is when keen hunters go out in search of game, particularly the highly-prized grouse, which is unique to the UK and notoriously difficult to catch because of the fast speeds at which they fly. Every year, men and women across Great Britain don tweed outfits, put on their wellington boots and head out into the country to catch all manner of game, ranging from guinea fowl and squab pigeon to venison and pheasant.

As well as being something of a holiday among keen hunters, The Glorious Twelfth also represents an economic boon for the country, with many UK residents and international tourists paying to embark on highly sought after shooting voyages or tournaments. In fact, the shooting tourism industry, as it is known, reportedly brings in £30 million to the Scottish economy alone and a mammoth £150 million across the UK.

Although game season is a fixture of the countryside calendar, it also makes its way down to London, where several of the capital’s best restaurants add seasonal game to their menus. Throughout August until December, you are likely to find game dishes on the menu at some of the capital’s hotspots, particularly gastropubs and British restaurants. That’s not to say that this is an exclusively British practice though, with some of London’s top Indian, French and other restaurants also getting in on the action.

To gain a full understanding of the shooting season, as well as find some of the best game restaurants in London, read our guide to the Glorious Twelfth below.

What is the Glorious Twelfth?

The Glorious Twelfth marks the official start of the shooting season across Britain. The day is a staple of the annual calendar in the British countryside and sees hunting enthusiasts pull out their guns once more to begin a season of shooting. At first, the game that is hunted is grouse, with pheasants and other birds being hunted later in the season.

What date is the Glorious Twelfth?

The Glorious Twelfth takes place every year on 12 August.

Why is it called the Glorious Twelfth?

12 August is considered ‘glorious’ because it marks the start of a new season for hunting fans and is often dubbed the ‘New Year’s Day of hunting’. It is also ‘glorious’ on a practical level, because of the positive impact on the economy - each year, the shooting tourism industry generates £30 million in Scotland and around £150 million across the UK.

How long is the grouse season?

The grouse shooting season begins on 12 August of each year and ends on 10 December.

What are the rules of the Glorious Twelfth and shooting season?

The most highly-prized game bird is grouse, which are unique to the UK and are famously difficult to hunt, flying at speeds of up to 70 miles an hour. Hunters are also forbidden to shoot them on Sundays.

Why is the Glorious Twelfth controversial?

The practice of hunting in general is viewed by some as inhumane and unnecessary. Grouse hunting in particular is controversial because environmentalists say that the practice endangers wildlife and contributes to global warming. Animal activist groups also believe that landowners kill the natural predators of grouse in order to maintain the levels of grouse on their land, which can be converted into cash made from shooting tourism.

However, supporters of the shooting tourism industry argue that they are actually helping the grouse to survive. This is because grouse rely on the heather on the moorlands where they live, eating the young shoots and using the older stems to make nests and shelter. Supporters of hunting say that burning the heather helps to encourage further growth and maintain the grouse's source of food and shelter.

London’s best game restaurants

Want to know what all the fuss is about when it comes to game season? Check out our pick of the best London restaurants serving game this year, many of which are serving special limited edition dishes to make the most of its shorter season.

The Harwood Arms, Fulham

What: The reigning king of London’s gastropub scene, The Harwood Arms is well known for its menu of hi-spec pub classics, but the restaurant is also committed to serving seasonal game. That includes a range of game birds, as well as plenty of venison, like this Berkshire fallow deer with pale ale, prunes and Hen of the Woods mushroom from last year.  
Where: Walham Grove, SW6 1QP
Book now: The Harwood Arms

Wiltons, St. James's

What: One of London’s oldest restaurants is also, unsurprisingly, one of its leading game specialists, famed for game cookery since its inception in 1742. Wiltons and The Ritz have always gone head to head, unofficially, to see who can serve the very first grouse, so if you’re hoping to nab an early bird, Wiltons is certainly the place to do it. Expect your game bird of choice to be cooked in the most traditional style, roasted with bacon and served with a classic bread sauce and game chips.
Where: 55 Jermyn Street, SW1Y 6LX
Book now: Wiltons

Corrigan’s, Mayfair

What: Richard Corrigan is one of London’s most vocal and visible game champions, and the Glorious Twelfth is a big deal every year at Corrigan’s. It means the return of Corrigan’s famous game pie to the menu - a magnificent shortcrust pie of grouse, mallard, partridge and pheasant - but also roasted game birds served in a more classical way.
Where: 28 Upper Grosvenor Street, W1K 7EH
Book now: Corrigan’s

Quo Vadis, Soho

What: If you’re looking for delicious game and a good time, consider a visit to Quo Vadis, where incomparable chef Jeremy Lee always provides equal doses of great food and entertainment. Quo Vadis celebrates days like the Glorious Twelfth with suitable pomp and fanfare, and there’s always grouse on the menu come 12 August, usually served the traditional way with game crisps, redcurrant jelly and bread sauce. As the season progresses, you can expect more seasonal accompaniments, like stone fruits, nuts and autumnal salads.
Where: 26-29 Dean Street, W1D 3LL
Book now: Quo Vadis

Mount St. Restaurant, Mayfair

What: This stunning restaurant is fast becoming a Mayfair landmark - not only home to perhaps the most impressive art collection in any London restaurant, but also some of the most luxurious, old-school cooking. Chef Jamie Shears is a man with a deep love of game cookery, so it's no surprise to see both feathered game and venison hit the menu in the months from August onwards. His grouse with smoked bacon and black pudding pie, and game chips is worthy of a visit by itself, and you can gawp at some original Matisse and Warhol art whilst you're there. 
Where: 41-43 Mount Street, W1K 2RX
Book now: Mount St. Restaurant

Kitchen W8, Kensington

What: This West London spot is on everyone’s grouse hit list for a reason - Mark Kempson is a true game aficionado, having won awards for his game cookery over the years, not to mention a Michelin star at Kitchen W8. This year, Mark will have a grouse dish on the menu from 18 August onwards - a beautiful whole-roast Yorkshire grouse with smoked celeriac, stuffed cabbage, damsons, liver and bacon. Don’t be surprised to see other game birds hit the menu later into the hunting season.
Where: 11-13 Abingdon Road, W8 6AH
Book now: Kitchen W8

Trinity, Clapham

What: When we think classic cooking, we think Trinity. Adam Byatt has made this Clapham spot into perhaps the most highly regarded bastion of classical cookery in the UK, turning out utterly delicious food cooked with proper old-school technique. It shouldn’t be much of a surprise then that all sorts of game birds arrive on the Trinity menu from August onwards, including lesser seen birds like snipe and woodcock.
Where: 4 The Polygon, SW4 0JG
Book now: Trinity

Elystan Street, Chelsea

What: Phil Howard, one of London’s legendary classical chefs, is renowned for his skill with game cookery. His Chelsea restaurant, Elystan Street, truly comes alive in autumn, offering exceptional value dishes that celebrate the best of British native game. Howard has long advocated for serving grouse later in the season, believing the birds are ‘plumper, better flavoured, and better value’ as the year progresses. When grouse does eventually appear on the Elystan Street menu, diners can expect classic, refined cooking that showcases Howard’s signature style.
Where: 43 Elystan Street, SW3 3NT
Book now: Elystan Street

The Cinnamon Club, Westminster

What: Vivek Singh’s modern Indian fine dining restaurant The Cinnamon Club always features game on the menu come the autumn months, with game birds joining venison dishes. The restaurant often holds celebration dinners with other guest chefs joining Singh for a special evening of game cookery, and you can expect dishes such as last year's Rajasthani spiced tandoori grouse breast with yellow lentil Tadka, cumin and garlic.
Where: 30-32 Great Smith Street, SW1P 3BU
Book now: The Cinnamon Club

On the hunt for more meaty restaurants? Check out our pick of the best steak restaurants in London, or browse our guide to London's best burger joints.