My favourite restaurants: Andy Beynon

Andy Beynon recently celebrated five years of Behind, his London Fields restaurant which received a Michelin star after just twenty days of trade. It's an intimate chef's table experience which takes place at an eighteen-seater curved counter and, as its name would suggest, guests get to observe the behind-the-scenes of the restaurant. While the speed at which Andy received his accolade couldn’t have been anticipated, his ambition to succeed has always been clear.

Growing up, Andy’s Italian heritage played a key role in developing his enthusiasm for food, with visits to Italy exposing him to the country’s fresh produce. Travel has remained an important part of his culinary career, taking inspiration from different cuisines and collaborating with chefs overseas.

Andy’s hospitality career began at age seventeen at the renowned J Sheekey. His first experience working in a Michelin-starred restaurant was at the Lords of the Manor in the Cotswolds, to which he commuted from London for over two years. He later developed his knowledge of classical French cooking at Pied à Terre and The Ledbury, alongside other Michelin-starred stints.Through joining Jason Atherton’s City Social development kitchen, Andy got a taste for recipe creation and after a period of teaching at a culinary school, he garnered the space and income to start thinking about opening his own place. 

Behind opened its doors in October 2020, only to close them again ten days later due to a coronavirus lockdown. Ten days after its second reopening, Behind gained its first Michelin star and has been going from strength to strength ever since. The fish-forward menu is sustainable, innovative and hyper-seasonal which, combined with Andy’s laid back nature, sets the tone for an interactive, customer-focused experience. With a diverse career and clear eye for quality, Andy’s favourite restaurants are worth taking note of.

Benares, Mayfair

Andy says: 'Chef Sameer Taneja is serving some of the best modern Indian food in the centre of town, so much flavour and also innovative techniques. His lamb chops are some of my favourite in the world.' 
Where: 12a Berkeley Square, Mayfair, W1J 6BS
Book now: Benares

Lahore Kebab House, Whitechapel

Andy says: 'Funnily enough, the last time I went to Lahore I actually saw Chef Sameer there. Lahore is my go-to for a late night dinner, but more than that, I've been going there for over 25 years. They always put up with me throwing a few naan breads in the tandoori oven in the kitchen too which is good fun. Also BYOB which is a bonus.'
Where: 2-10 Umberston Street, Whitechapel, E1 1PY
Book now: Lahore Kebab House

Manteca, Shoreditch

Andy says: 'I'm a regular here, I always want to sit at the chef's counter so you can chat to the team whilst you eat. One of my favourite dishes is the Pig's Skin Ragu with crispy pig's skin to dip into it. It's so naughty.'
Where: 49-51 Curtain Road, Shoreditch, EC2A 3PT
Book now: Manteca

The Ritz, Mayfair

Andy says: 'I go every year, it's such a special restaurant in London for me. In my opinion, it's two star worthy because the service and the food there are hard to beat. I like to sit at one of the corner tables so I can look out onto the dining floor and I'm always so impressed by the incredible sommeliers, and so many of them are so young too. You can't go and not have the crepe suzette, even if you're so full, it's the only way to finish a meal at The Ritz.'
Where: The Ritz Hotel, 150 Piccadilly, Mayfair, W1J 9BR
Book now: The Ritz

Silo, Hackney

Andy says: 'Doug's become a good friend of mine and we've spent time in each other's kitchens. I'm in total awe of him and what he's done at Silo - I went there for a dinner, he was hosting an event with Ruinart last year and was completely blown away by the dishes he was putting out. We had Fosse Meadow chicken with caramelised buttermilk and leek scraps and obviously the meal kicked off with his Silo Quaver which is pure genius.'
Where: CRATE Brewery, Queens Yard, Hackney, E9 5EN
Book now: Silo

Himi, Soho

Andy says: 'I haven't been to this place yet but it's from the same people behind Roji which is a Japanese chef's counter in Mayfair, currently closed. It's a husband and wife duo who run the restaurants and they're both always working in the kitchen together. Can't wait to try this new one out very soon and see what they've got to offer.'
Where: 4 Newburgh Street, Soho, W1F 7RF
Book now: Himi

Find more restaurant recommendations from industry experts, including Max Coen, head chef at Dorian and Saiphin Moore, founder of Rosa's Thai. You can also read in-depth interviews with chefs, like Sat Bains, Adam Simmonds and Douglas McMaster.