My favourite restaurants: Masaki Sugisaki

As head chef of Dinings SW3, Masaki Sugisaki has been leading the way for Japanese cuisine in London for over a decade. He first opened the restaurant in 2013 and hasn't looked back since, taking on a quiet little spot on a Belgravia mews that has since become a mecca for London foodies. A chef and food lover to his very soul, Masaki's recommendations span the whole of the UK, focusing particularly on restaurants that share his passion for sustainability and farm-to-fork ethos.

Despite not gaining much recognition until 2013 when he helped open Dinings SW3, Masaki has been working in the culinary world since the ripe age of 15. Helping his parents in their kaiseki restaurant in Japan, Masaki gained a deep respect for the delicate appreciation that Japanese chefs had over their food; how they prioritised sustainability and quality. However, despite his love for traditional Japanese cooking, he felt that his creativity was restricted by expected customs. That is, until he moved to London.

At first shocked by the lack of awareness about Japanese cooking from European diners, as well as the low quality in the food being served, Masaki was determined to bring authentic Japanese food to English audiences. This inspiration allowed him to flourish, first at the now-closed Nobu on Berkeley Street, and soon in his very own restaurant, Dinings SW3.

Leading in the change for better-quality products, Masaki has worked closely with fishermen for years to implement ikejime - a traditional Japanese technique that preserves the original freshness, texture and taste of fish. He’s also extremely passionate about sustainability and utilising ingredients completely, which he’s implemented into practice through his popular 'Gill-to-Tail' menu where he serves guests every part of the fish, even the commonly discarded bits.

Masaki Sugisaki’s fusion cuisine using traditional Japanese techniques and practice whilst also veering from the Japanese standard has awarded him great recognition across the world and many consider him responsible for having modernised Japanese cuisine to appeal to European audiences.

After such an inspiring and moving journey across continents and cuisines, Masaki Sugisaki is without a doubt someone we trust for recommendations when it comes to eating out.

Crocadon, Cornwall

Masaki says: 'This is Dan Cox’s farm-to-fork restaurant down in Cornwall. I love the holistic ethos of the place - they even make loads of the crockery for the dining room on site. The restaurant is at the heart of the farm, and unsurprisingly the quality of the produce they’re working with is exceptional, everything is hyper local. You’re eating fruit and vegetables that are grown right outside. I love the contrast between how technical some of the cooking is, but it remains aesthetically pared back in keeping with the setting.‘
Where: Saltash, Cornwall, PL12 6RL

The River Cafe, Hammersmith

Masaki says: ‘This is such a classic spot I just had to put it on my list -it’s a great place to people watch in a beautiful setting. I like to go for simple dishes like tagliatelle al ragu with a glass of red wine and then cheese to finish. It can be quite an expensive meal but absolutely worth it - the level of service alongside the food is some of the best in London.’
Where: Hammersmith, London, W6 9HA
Book now: The River Cafe

Aulis, Soho

Masaki says: ‘This is a really intimate chef’s table experience from Simon Rogan just off Dean Street. It’s such an exciting place to eat - you can see the chef’s cooking and plating these incredibly intricate dishes right in front of you. The ingredient quality is amazing, with a lot of the ingredients coming from Simon’s farm in the Lake District. The soft drink pairing is definitely worth trying.’
Where: Soho, London, W1F 0BN
Book now: Aulis

Brat, Shoreditch

Masaki says: ‘I love Basque flavours and so Brat has been one of my favourites for a long time. They work with great ingredients and cook them simply over open fire - the turbot is incredible, but I love to order a selection of their small plates as well. Of course, you have to make sure you order the cheesecake to finish.’
Where: Shoreditch, London, E1 6JL
Book now: Brat

Yashin Ocean House, South Kensington

Masaki says: ‘This is a great spot! I love to go to lunch here, especially if I’m after a special Japanese meal. I like to sit at the counter and order food a few bites at a time alongside a couple of glasses of sake. They serve refined, decadent Japanese dishes, but they also champion head-to-tail cooking, which is something I really enjoy.’
Where: London, SW7 3RN
Book now: Yashin Ocean House

The Hidden Hut, Cornwall

Masaki says: ‘This is a real hidden gem also down in Cornwall. The menu is written up daily on a blackboard with whatever is available and in season. Given it’s down on the coast, I always make sure I order some of their grilled seafood alongside their salads. They also do amazing feast nights throughout the summer where you sit on long tables on the beach and the food is cooked on open-air wood fires. It’s a totally immersive, communal experience where you really feel connected to the environment your food is coming from.’
Where: Truro, Cornwall, TR2 5EW
Book now: The Hidden Hut

Want more chef recommendations? Check out our interviews with Taz Sarhane, Mark McCabe and author/chef Mark Davies for more must-see restaurants in Britain!