Dorian

Bistro, British·
££££
·
Gold Award
·

SquareMeal Review of Dorian

Gold Award

What do you get when you cross a chef from Ikoyi, mixologist from Core and the same wine supplier as Noble Rot? Answer: a seriously good restaurant. But throw in talent from The River Cafe, Corbin & King and a Phil Howard protegee, it all feels like a foodie’s fever dream. Yet, here we are. So, given this line-up, how good can Dorian really be?

Sensationally good, it turns out. As we round The Ledbury’s scaffolding-clad corner, the energy is palpable. The modest, double-fronted restaurant is bursting with diners, whom we push through to our sought-after table.

What we receive from Max Coen’s kitchen is nothing short of a masterclass. A fig tree negroni, courtesy of ex-Core Ale Villa, is a bitterly botanical delight. Gillardeau oysters - the Rolls Royce of bivalves - are impossibly fresh, as if plucked from a shoreline metres away. Liver parfait dolloped on crisp toast has an almost mascarpone-esque texture, a heavenly snack that we would happily overdose on. What’s more, every member of staff handles the insane pace with serene ease. Of course, this is by no means their first rodeo.

Next, with a smooth Cote-de-Beaune in one hand and crisp potatoes in the other, we shovel down a truly stellar beef tartare. Beside it, a slightly less incredible sweetbread-gribiche number proves to be the only hiccup in this otherwise flawless performance. The main courses here raise the bar even higher, with ruby red slabs of barely-seared venison proving a particular highlight. The culinary roller-coaster then slows to a relaxing stop with a silky smooth pear and custard tart, and we exit the ride.

The whole experience will set you back about £100 a head, which perhaps isn’t quite the “approachably priced” menu promised by founder Chris D’Sylva. No matter, because this is an experience like no other, and we are already queuing up to go again. And again.

Good to know

Average Price
££££ - £50 - £79
Cuisines
Bistro, British
Ambience
Cool, Glamorous, Lively, Luxury, Romantic, Traditional
Other Awards
One Michelin star, SquareMeal London Top 100
Food Occasions
All day dining
Special Features
Counter dining, Vegetarian options
People
Dates, Romantic, Special occasions

About

Notting Hill is no stranger to big names, with the likes of Core, The Ledbury, Orasay, and Caractere calling this glitzy neighbourhood home. Modern British bistro Dorian has quickly become another big name in this glamorous part of town, with its team members hailing from some iconic London restaurants.  

Located in the former site of Raoul’s, just a stone’s throw from The Ledbury, Dorian is the latest brainchild of Supermarket of Dreams creator Chris D’Sylva. His unique vision is to create an ‘anti-Notting Hill restaurant for people that live in and love the area’, using a team of hand-picked professionals. 

The team is made up of alumni from the likes of Kitchen Table, the River Café and nearby Core by Clare Smyth. Max Coen - previously of Ikoyi, Kitchen Table and three Michelin-starred Frantzen in Sweden - heads up the kitchen, while drinks are looked after by Ale Villa who comes from three Michelin-starred Core by Clare Smyth. 

It’s a very stylish affair, with interior details including dark paint, wood panelling, brass furnishings, smoked mirrors, three-sided banquettes and marble tables with wrought iron stands. A stylised 8-bit logo is set to add some quirky 80s character. 

Dishes are ‘approachably priced’ and prepared in an open kitchen using a wood grill. The menu changes regularly but can include dishes like dry-aged cote de boeuf, potato rostis with crab, girolles and Cornish yarg, mussels with cucumber and shiso, and a peach custard tart. The predominantly French and Italian wine list has also been assembled by a stellar team, with input from Noble Rot's Keeling Andrew & Co., while seasonal cocktails will include twists-on-classics, such as a fig leaf negroni.

The restaurant is an all-day operation, transforming seamlessly from a bright lunchtime dining room to a subversive dinner destination. Diners can sit at the marble-topped bar for drinks and nibbles or book a full table for a more relaxed meal.


FAQs

Who is the head chef?

The head chef is Max Coen, who has previously cooked at Ikoyi, Kitchen Table and Frantzen in Sweden.

Helpful? 0

Who owns the restaurant?

Chris D'Sylva, who also founded Notting Hill Meat + Fish Shop and Supermarket of Dreams.

Helpful? 1

Do I need to book a table?

The restaurant is typically very busy, so we would definitely recommend booking.

Helpful? 0

Location

105-107 Talbot Road, Notting Hill, London, W11 2AT

020 3089 9556 020 3089 9556

Website

Opening Times

Dinner
Mon 17:30-23:00
Tue Closed
Wed Closed
Thu Closed
Fri Closed
Sat Closed
Sun Closed
All day
Mon Closed
Tue 12:00-23:00
Wed 12:00-23:00
Thu 12:00-23:00
Fri 12:00-23:00
Sat 12:00-23:00
Sun 12:00-22:00

Reviews

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Write a review


4 Reviews 
Food/Drink
Service
Atmosphere
Value

Anon

15 December 2023  
Food & Drink 5
Service 0.5
Atmosphere 1
Value 0.5
Let the buyer beware.

I was a regular at Dorian when it first opened and enjoyed its neighbourhood vibe.  Been about 8 times.  The food is nothing super special but they use good ingredients, and it's around the corner from my home.  Service was always amaturish - kids with little to no experience, only a few real professionals and constant front of house churn.   

Then it got less friendly, super high prices and now a very selective reservation process, similar to a private members club.  To get a booking at 8pm I was told I now need the owner's consent. 

The wine selection = crazy prices.  Now there's only a few bottles under £100 - and not the best.   

And the time limits - while the Square Meal descriptions says £100 per person, that is not correct. It will be more £200-£250 per person and that is conservative. So after 1 hour 45 and put the bill on your table unprompted, and you have racked up a bill of £500+ for 2 people, you feel somewhat cheated.  

And watch out for the owner.   

Anon

22 July 2023  
Food & Drink 3.5
Service 2.5
Atmosphere 2.5
Value 2.5

Peter A

06 June 2023  
Food & Drink 2.5
Service 2.5
Atmosphere 5
Value 1

Lucia L

25 May 2023  
Food & Drink 2
Service 0.5
Atmosphere 1.5
Value 0.5
Book a table

Call Dorian to make a booking on:

020 3089 9556 020 3089 9556

Visit their website

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