Dorian

When Dorian opened as an ‘anti-Notting Hill restaurant’ back in 2022, we wonder if winning a Michelin star was ever a part of its plan? The restaurant has garnered acclaim amongst critics, celebrities and now the Michelin Guide since it launched, but this Parisian-inspired bistro is far from the stiff white tablecloth archetype associated with owning a coveted star.

Part of that is down to its atmosphere. Stepping off Notting Hill’s quiet Talbot Road, we’re propelled into a pandemonium of bustling staff, blaring house music and intense conversation that ricochets of ginormous rectangular mirrors. This is at 6pm on a Tuesday, might we add, yet we can’t help but feel like we’ve turned up late to the party.

The space is crammed, buzzing, alive. We shimmy between tables set no more than a few inches apart into a green leather banquette, and are instructed that once we've ordered, that’s it, late additions can’t be added to the bill. At least they warn you.

Dorian is undoubtedly ‘cool and trendy’, yet behind the pumping playlist and industrial ventilation ducts is an exceptional restaurant that demands to be taken seriously. Owner Chris D’Sylva of The Notting Hill Fish Shop draws on his little black book of suppliers to source some truly outstanding produce from across the British Isles, while head chef Max Coen (Ikoyi, Kitchen Table) puts them to work, offering modern takes on brasserie classics with a focus on open-fire cooking.

You could rack up a hefty bill on snacks alone, which include a beautiful liver parfait on charred sourdough with candied nuts and marmalade jelly, but they are all phenomenal. If you’re being selective, we’d suggest one of its signature rostis, which come dressed in delicate toppings such as veal, grilled peas and sea urchin – or straight-up caviar for £35 a pop. Starters include a sublime dish of chunky lobster tail with pink peppercorn and chilli jam and a thermidor sauce, paired with the gratifying crunch of shoestring fried potato. And its grills are legendary: a magnificent piece of sirloin swimming in its juices arrives gnarled from the grill, yet juicy and blushing within.

The restaurant's already stellar team extends to the drinks too, with a multi-page wine list collated by Noble Rot alumni. Eating at Dorian is a whirlwind of high-volume, high-energy, high-cost fun, rooted in truly delicious cooking.

Notting Hill is no stranger to big names, with the likes of Core, The Ledbury, Orasay, and Caractere calling this glitzy neighbourhood home. Modern British bistro Dorian has quickly become another big name in this glamorous part of town, with its team members hailing from some iconic London restaurants.  

Located in the former site of Raoul’s, just a stone’s throw from The Ledbury, Dorian is the latest brainchild of Supermarket of Dreams creator Chris D’Sylva. His unique vision is to create an ‘anti-Notting Hill restaurant for people that live in and love the area’, using a team of hand-picked professionals. 

The team is made up of alumni from the likes of Kitchen Table, the River Café and nearby Core by Clare Smyth. Max Coen - previously of Ikoyi, Kitchen Table and three Michelin-starred Frantzen in Sweden - heads up the kitchen, while drinks are looked after by Ale Villa who comes from three Michelin-starred Core by Clare Smyth. 

It’s a very stylish affair, with interior details including dark paint, wood panelling, brass furnishings, smoked mirrors, three-sided banquettes and marble tables with wrought iron stands. A stylised 8-bit logo is set to add some quirky 80s character. 

Dishes are ‘approachably priced’ and prepared in an open kitchen using a wood grill. The menu changes regularly but can include dishes like dry-aged cote de boeuf, potato rostis with crab, girolles and Cornish yarg, mussels with cucumber and shiso, and a peach custard tart. The predominantly French and Italian wine list has also been assembled by a stellar team, with input from Noble Rot's Keeling Andrew & Co., while seasonal cocktails will include twists-on-classics, such as a fig leaf negroni.

The restaurant is an all-day operation, transforming seamlessly from a bright lunchtime dining room to a subversive dinner destination. Diners can sit at the marble-topped bar for drinks and nibbles or book a full table for a more relaxed meal.