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SquareMeal Review of Dorian

Gold Award

When Dorian opened as an ‘anti-Notting Hill restaurant’ back in 2022, we wonder if winning a Michelin star was ever a part of its plan? The restaurant has garnered acclaim amongst critics, celebrities and now the Michelin Guide since it launched, but this Parisian-inspired bistro is far from the stiff white tablecloth archetype associated with owning a coveted star.

Part of that is down to its atmosphere. Stepping off Notting Hill’s quiet Talbot Road, we’re propelled into a pandemonium of bustling staff, blaring house music and intense conversation that ricochets of ginormous rectangular mirrors. This is at 6pm on a Tuesday, might we add, yet we can’t help but feel like we’ve turned up late to the party.

The space is crammed, buzzing, alive. We shimmy between tables set no more than a few inches apart into a green leather banquette, and are instructed that once we've ordered, that’s it, late additions can’t be added to the bill. At least they warn you.

Dorian is undoubtedly ‘cool and trendy’, yet behind the pumping playlist and industrial ventilation ducts is an exceptional restaurant that demands to be taken seriously. Owner Chris D’Sylva of The Notting Hill Fish Shop draws on his little black book of suppliers to source some truly outstanding produce from across the British Isles, while head chef Max Coen (Ikoyi, Kitchen Table) puts them to work, offering modern takes on brasserie classics with a focus on open-fire cooking.

You could rack up a hefty bill on snacks alone, which include a beautiful liver parfait on charred sourdough with candied nuts and marmalade jelly, but they are all phenomenal. If you’re being selective, we’d suggest one of its signature rostis, which come dressed in delicate toppings such as veal, grilled peas and sea urchin – or straight-up caviar for £35 a pop. Starters include a sublime dish of chunky lobster tail with pink peppercorn and chilli jam and a thermidor sauce, paired with the gratifying crunch of shoestring fried potato. And its grills are legendary: a magnificent piece of sirloin swimming in its juices arrives gnarled from the grill, yet juicy and blushing within.

The restaurant's already stellar team extends to the drinks too, with a multi-page wine list collated by Noble Rot alumni. Eating at Dorian is a whirlwind of high-volume, high-energy, high-cost fun, rooted in truly delicious cooking.

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Good to know

Average Price
££££ - £50 - £79
Cuisine
Bistro, British, Vegetarian friendly
Ambience
Cool, Cosy, Fun, Glamorous, Lively, Luxury, Romantic, Traditional
Awards
One Michelin star, SquareMeal London Top 100
Food Occasions
Dinner, Lunch
Special Features
Counter dining
Perfect for
Birthdays, Celeb spotting, Celebrations, Dates, Romantic, Special occasions

About

Notting Hill is no stranger to big names, with the likes of Core, The Ledbury, Orasay, and Caractere calling this glitzy neighbourhood home. Modern British bistro Dorian has quickly become another major force in this glamorous part of town, earning its first Michelin star in 2024, and often frequented by both Notting Hill locals and A list celebrities alike.

Located in the former site of Raoul’s, just a stone’s throw from The Ledbury, the inspiration behind Dorian’s name came from Oscar Wilde's pleasure-seeking protagonist in A Picture of Dorian Gray. The concept was founded by entrepreneur Chris D'Sylva back in 2022 (of Notting Hill Fish Shop), and is led by chef Max Coen, who trained under Michelin chefs including Björn Frantzén, James Knappett, and Jeremy Chan. Max's approach is simple: let exceptional produce do the talking.

His menus change almost daily based on what's best at market - Gillardeau oysters from France, Norwegian scallops, day-boat Cornish fish, game birds shot to order, and vegetables delivered same-morning from Sussex. Dishes include a selection of bitesize rostis - topped with luxurious ingredients such as caviar or black truffle ice cream - plus seasonal game paired with foraged ingredients. Everything is listed by ingredients rather than flowery descriptions to reflect the simple nature of each dish.

The wine programme, run by Head of Wine Jeri Kimber-Ndiaye, includes over 1,000 bins, from fine Burgundies to Champagnes, and interesting smaller producers, with the list evolving weekly. The sommelier team knows their regulars well and can arrange cellar storage for serious collectors, on request.

Front of house is managed by Daisy Eccles, who keeps the fast-paced service running smoothly while making guests feel genuinely welcome. The 35-seat space boasts French bistro vibes - black-and-white checked floors, green leather banquettes, bentwood chairs, and candlelit tables with white cotton covers.

An 18-seat bar runs along one wall where you can watch cocktails being mixed at one end and Max's team working the wood-fired grill at the open kitchen.

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FAQs

Who is the head chef?

The head chef is Max Coen, who has previously cooked at Ikoyi, Kitchen Table and Frantzen in Sweden.

Who owns the restaurant?

Chris D'Sylva, who also founded Notting Hill Meat + Fish Shop and Supermarket of Dreams.

Do I need to book a table?

The restaurant is typically very busy, so we would definitely recommend booking.

Details

Get directions to Dorian Get directions to Dorian
Location
105-107 Talbot Road, Notting Hill, London, W11 2AT

020 3089 9556 020 3089 9556

Website

Opening Times

All day
Mon Closed
Tue Closed
Wed 12:00-23:00
Thu 12:00-23:00
Fri 12:00-23:00
Sat 12:00-23:00
Sun 12:00-22:00

Reviews

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7 Reviews 
Food/Drink
Service
Atmosphere
Value

Anon

11 August 2025  
Food & Drink 0.5
Service 0.5
Atmosphere 0.5
Value 0.5
Don’t go there

I had high hopes for Dorian, but it turned out to be a huge disappointment. The prices are absolutely ridiculous — £155 for a steak in a bistro-style place is outrageous. Service was well below standard: slow, inattentive, and lacking any real hospitality. The portions were shockingly small, especially given the price tag. The salads were no better than something you’d grab last minute from Tesco — bland and uninspired. The seating is tight and uncomfortable, making it hard to relax and enjoy the meal. The chef clearly has talent, but the overall restaurant experience is completely substandard. Overpriced, underwhelming, and not worth a return visit.

Anon

20 June 2024  
Food & Drink 1.5
Service 1
Atmosphere 2
Value 1
Not worth it.

Overpriced and poor staff. 

Anon

26 April 2024  
Food & Drink 2
Service 0.5
Atmosphere 2.5
Value 2
Shame the staff are so arrogant.

I used to love Dorian, as a local it was just what Notting Hill needed. Food wasn't anything exceptional but it was good quality and the place had a nice vibe. 

They have become more than arrogant though over time. 

OI used to love Dorian as a local, and it was just what Notting Hill needed. The food was decent, and the place had a nice vibe. However, their staff has become extremely arrogant over time, and during my last visit, I was absolutely appalled by their rudeness and unprofessionalism.

 

As soon as we arrived, we were informed that we only had 90 minutes for the table. This short window of time indicated a "churn them in and out" mentality. However, this approach would be acceptable in a low-priced restaurant, not in a place like Dorian, where the average cost per head with wine is around £200.

 

During our visit, we were waiting for our desserts when we were told to leave the table as the next guests had arrived. We hadn't even finished our meal yet, and the staff kept hounding us every two minutes. It was unacceptable, considering that there were around three empty tables for four people. It was ridiculous that they chose to hound us instead of seating the next guests there.

 

As a result, I was utterly disgusted by my experience, and so were my guests. If Dorian wants to treat their customers like this, they should not charge exorbitant prices. If they want people to leave early, they should learn to subtly ensure that the food is being served on time to give diners enough time to eat.

 

In conclusion, I will never go back to Dorian, and I hope that they take this feedback seriously and make the necessary changes.n my last visit I was absolutely shocked at the rudeness and unprofessionalism of the staff. It was an absolute joke. 

We were told on arrival that we only had 90 mins for the table. Which in itself is a very short window (Lets churn them in and out mentality). Which when you're paying low prices, you expect. But not in a place where the average cost per head with wine is around £200.

We were just waiting for our deserts and we were told that we had to leave the table as the next guests had arrived. I was more than shocked. I said that we hadn't finished our meal yet and were waiting on our deserts. The staff came and hounded us every 2 minutes. 

I looked around me and there were around 3 empty tables for 4 people, why couldn't they sit the guests there? Instead of hounding people who were still eating due to their slow service to move from the table. 

I was absolutely disgusted, as were my guests. If you want to churn people in and out then don't charge excessive prices, and if you want people to leave early, learn to subtly make sure that the food is being served on time to give the diners enough time to eat it.

I will never ever go back. Not that they care and they will continue to churn.

 

Anon

15 December 2023  
Food & Drink 5
Service 0.5
Atmosphere 1
Value 0.5
Let the buyer beware.

I was a regular at Dorian when it first opened and enjoyed its neighbourhood vibe.  Been about 8 times.  The food is nothing super special but they use good ingredients, and it's around the corner from my home.  Service was always amaturish - kids with little to no experience, only a few real professionals and constant front of house churn.   

Then it got less friendly, super high prices and now a very selective reservation process, similar to a private members club.  To get a booking at 8pm I was told I now need the owner's consent. 

The wine selection = crazy prices.  Now there's only a few bottles under £100 - and not the best.   

And the time limits - while the Square Meal descriptions says £100 per person, that is not correct. It will be more £200-£250 per person and that is conservative. So after 1 hour 45 and put the bill on your table unprompted, and you have racked up a bill of £500+ for 2 people, you feel somewhat cheated.  

And watch out for the owner.   

Anon

22 July 2023  
Food & Drink 3.5
Service 2.5
Atmosphere 2.5
Value 2.5

Peter A

06 June 2023  
Food & Drink 2.5
Service 2.5
Atmosphere 5
Value 1

Lucia L

25 May 2023  
Food & Drink 2
Service 0.5
Atmosphere 1.5
Value 0.5
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Call Dorian to make a booking on:

020 3089 9556 020 3089 9556

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