Sitting pretty in the rather swanky Berkeley Square, Benares remains a cornerstone of Indian fine dining. Having held on to its Michelin star for another year, Benares is heading into 2025 with a complete makeover, whilst retaining the inestimable talents of exec chef Sameer Taneja.
The entrance is high drama. Thousands of candles flicker at us in greeting as we’re led up a winding staircase, and past an indoor fountain adorned with floating water lilies and tealights, and an extraordinary mobile of hanging cranes. Despite the sleek interiors, there’s a homely feel to the space; white-clothed tables and low-lit elegance balance with friendly service and gentle aromas that waft from the kitchens.
The tasting menu here is playful, doused with theatricality, and we begin with a selection of street snacks; an ode to the street vendors of the subcontinent. Lightly spiced pakora pops rest in the shade of a bonsai, whilst crunchy pani poori shells await a sparkling apple cocktail, poured from a teapot, before being devoured in one vibrant, flavour-packed bite.
Oysters arrive next, but not as you know them. They’re baked, diced, and paired with sliced Goan sausage, smothered in a spiced vindaloo curry that all sits compact in an oyster shell. The rich, fiery sauce is spooned onto a pillowy sanna - a steamed coconut and rice bun - that offers a sweet, spongy contrast to the dish’s Punjabi-level heat. A miniature casserole dish reveals the most aromatic shorba (a thick, traditional soup), which swaps your expected Indian spices for notes of truffle. It’s creamy and completely moreish, showcasing the genius of Taneja’s menus that play around with untraditional ingredients.
Theatrically carbonated at the table, a sparkling lemon and thyme chai acts as the perfect palate cleanser - a refreshing interlude before the main event. That star billing goes to a pine-marinated venison chop - one of the evening’s many highlights. It’s perfectly cooked to a blushing rose and coated in a fragrant herby sauce, sitting on red chilli chutney and paired with a simple garlic creme fraiche. It’s devoured in minutes.
A soft, spongy rasmalai infused with cardamom and vanilla provides the perfect note to end on - not overly sweet, with a tart fruity gel that sits on top. After all these years, Benares is still at the top of its game, armed with the triple threat of delicious food, elegant wines and charming service.