Most chefs can recall the exact moment they realised they wanted to be a chef. For Max Coen, the head chef and co-founder of modern British bistro Dorian in Notting Hill, he was asked to cover an absence in the kitchen of his local pub at the age of 18, and immediately fell in love with the team’s energy and focus. The rest, as they say, is history.
Despite only just entering his late twenties, Max's CV spans an eight-month stagiaire role at Frantzen in Stockholm, a stint at James Knappett’s Kitchen Table in Fitzrovia, during which time the restaurant won its second Michelin star, and a role at Ikoyi alongside Jeremy Chan where, again, he helped it earn a second star.
One day, friend and entrepreneur Chris D’Sylva proposed that they open a new restaurant together – he had his eye on a site in Notting Hill and wanted Max to lead the kitchen team. Things were going really well for the young chef and he was hesitant to leave Ikoyi, but the opportunity to have true creative freedom over his own menu was too good to pass up.
Dorian opened its doors in October 2022 and was an instant smash hit, earning glowing reviews for its understated yet skilled dishes, use of impeccable British produce and high-octane, hedonistic energy. Max was only 26 at the time, and just a year later, Dorian earned a Michelin star in the 2024 Guide.
Have you ever wondered where chefs like Max eat when they’re not busy writing up their own menus? We asked him to share some of his all-time favourite restaurants – all of which happen to be in London - and he's chosen some absolute belters. Keep on scrolling to find out what he has to say about each of them.
Ikoyi, Temple
![Interiors at Ikoyi and one of its dish]()
Max says: ‘Ikoyi and Jeremy Chan will always be the first restaurant and chef that come to mind when anyone asks me where to eat in London. The dishes and thought behind the food at Ikoyi are truly unique - so many try to replicate what they do, but none get close to the level of detail and deliciousness that Jeremy creates. The incredible thing about Ikoyi is that it promises a once-in-a-lifetime meal that is full of innovative thinking, while also being truly satisfying and delicious. Go for the jollof rice and lobster custard alone!'
Where: 180 Strand, WC2R 1EA
Book now: Ikoyi
Berenjak, Soho and Borough Market
![Tahdig, dips and grills]()
Max says: ‘I love what Kian (Samyani) and the team are doing at Berenjak – it's my go-to casual restaurant recommendation for anyone visiting or living in London. The consistency across its dishes is some of the best I’ve ever seen in such a busy restaurant, and a meal here never fails to disappoint. The dips to start are essential - especially the chicken and truffle mayo with pickles – as are any of the kebabs and its saffron butter rice. The skewers are served on a big flat bread which absorbs all the flavours leftover on the plate. Outrageous. It’s my number one restaurant in London, always and forever!’
Where: 27 Romilly Street, W1D 5AL; 1 Bedale Street, SE1 9AL
Book now: Berenjak Soho; Berenjak Borough
Gold Mine, Bayswater
![Peking roast duck and dim sum]()
Max says: ‘On my days off, I’m often found dining solo at Gold Mine in Bayswater. For me, it’s so far removed from the bistro cookery at Dorian, but it hits the spot every time. The salt and pepper squid alongside a bowl of wontons in broth is an unbeatable combination. I like to dip the squid in the broth and some spicy chilli oil! It highlights everything I love about this sort of food: comfort, spice and sweat!’
Where: 100-102 Queensway, W2 3RR
Book now: Gold Mine
Kiln, Soho
![Two Thai dishes at Kiln]()
Max says: ‘Kiln produces dishes that never fail to blow my mind. I admire their use of unique produce to create bold, full-of-flavour, vibrant dishes. Being walk-in only gives it a very relaxed vibe and the open kitchen creates an immersive and energetic atmosphere. Most importantly, the food is full of truly unique Thai techniques. The combination of fruit, fish, spice and vegetables creates some of the most interesting food in London.’
Where: 58 Brewer Street, W1F 9TL
Book now: Kiln
Bouchon Racine, Farringdon
![Truffle dish, and duck dish]()
Max says: ‘I always have a soft spot for a bistro and this place ticks all the boxes for me; electric vibes and food rooted in true French bistro style. I knew I’d found one of my favourite spots as soon as I saw some of the dishes on the menu: foie gras creamed spinach, veal chop with Roquefort butter, and rabbit in mustard sauce...'
Where: 66 Cowcross Street, EC1M 6BP
Book now: Bouchon Racine
Discover more of our interviews with the UK's top chefs, or explore Notting Hill's coolest restaurants with our handy filterable list.