My favourite restaurants: Charmaine McHugo

For Charmaine McHugo, sustainability is at the heart of everything she does. Her field-to-fork restaurant Chapters - which she runs with her husband Mark - champions hyper-seasonal food, low-intervention wine and organic ingredients sourced from their very own kitchen garden. From the back of house to the front, every inch of Chapters is driven by the pair’s ethical ethos.

Growing up in Hereford, Charmaine engaged in a variety of front of house roles, before landing a managerial role at Ludlow Food Centre. Here, she learnt about the importance of zero food miles and animal welfare, which piqued her interest in the world of artisanal produce. She started gardening in her spare time, and her passion for plants has grown ever since.

In 2019, Chapters was born. Located in the Welsh town of Hay-on-Wye, the 22-cover restaurant sits within a historic listed building. Just eight miles from the restaurant is Charmaine’s half-acre, walled garden, which she manages almost entirely by herself. With Mark overseeing the kitchen, the pair work together using the restrictive nature of seasonal cooking to their advantage, preserving ingredients in the summer to be used as chutneys, pickles, and ferments in the winter.

Guests are invited to dine from a single set menu, which changes every six weeks to reflect their fresh, homegrown produce. Any other ingredients - cured meats, cheese and seafood - are sourced from nearby artisan producers and the Welsh shores. The drinks offering follows in the same vein, with an emphasis on organic, low intervention wine, which can also be purchased from their on-site bottle shop. 

Chapters’ ethical standards reach beyond the menu too, incorporating renewable electricity, recyclable paper and charitable donations into its regular practices. While we don’t imagine Charmaine does any of this for wider recognition, the restaurant was deservedly awarded a Michelin Green Star in 2022 and has retained it since.

It should come as no surprise that Charmaine’s favourite restaurants are all about organic produce, seasonal dishes, and top quality farm-to-table cooking - and even features SquareMeal's UK Top 100 winner in 2026. Keep reading to find out more!

Wilsons, Bristol

Charmaine McHugo says: 'If we’ve got a bit more time and want something a little more refined, Wilson’s is the place for it. Every dish is so thoughtfully put together, and the whole dining experience is just exceptional. It's a restaurant after my own heart, as their menu is informed by the seasons and highlights their passion for farm-to-table eating, with much of it grown in their market kitchen. They also forage for ingredients and find things like giant puffball mushrooms - which are always my favourite moments on a menu. I love it how nature is telling you what’s for dinner!'
Where: 24 Chandos Road, BS6 6PF
Book now: Wilsons

Daphne's Pizza, Powys

Charmaine McHugo says: 'Daphne’s is right on our doorstep and has become something of a weekly ritual for us. The pizzas are fantastic, of course, but it’s the sharing starters that really steal the show. Think organic salads, antipasti plates, and creamy fresh burrata. It would be remiss of me not to mention the homemade ice cream - which is always my highlight! The wine list is a dream, and they even make their own cider, which adds a lovely personal touch to the experience. It’s just the perfect spot for a relaxed, delicious meal, with a great atmosphere where you can linger for hours.'
Where: 53 High Street, LD8 2BE
Book now: Daphne's Pizza

Marmo, Bristol

Charmaine McHugo says: 'I’m such a big fan of Marmo - I love places that really celebrate the seasons, and Marmo is spot on. The dishes have a bit of flair, and their food is always so inspiring. I love that they focus on using fresh, local produce to create dishes that truly showcase the best of what’s around. The flavours are balanced, and there’s real thoughtfulness behind each plate. I remember a trout tartare with beetroot and horseradish that was finished with dill pollen, which completely brought the dish together and showcased a fine-tuned understanding of flavours and how ingredients work together.'
Where: 31 Baldwin Street, BS1 1RG
Book now: Marmo

Bravas, Bristol

Charmaine McHugo says: 'I really love Bravas - it’s one of those places I keep going back to in Bristol when I’m after something casual for a proper, food-filled catch-up with mates. It’s a small tapas spot that always hits the mark. The vibe is super cosy, and it really feels like you’re in a little corner of Spain. The small plates here are absolutely delicious, everything from calamares a la plancha to 21-day dry-aged fillet of bull - proper bold flavours. What I love most is the sharing aspect; it’s all about enjoying the food together, and there’s always something new to try.'
Where: 7 Cotham Hill, BS6 6LD
Book now: Bravas

Aulis, Cartmel

Charmaine McHugo says: 'My most memorable special occasion dining experience was at Aulis, Simon Rogan’s chef's table in the Lake District, where the intimacy of the experience is unparalleled. You’re watching the chefs cook directly in front of you; the whole concept is so immersive, and the dishes they bring out are an iteration of what’s served at L’Enclume next door. You can feel the deep connection to Simon Rogan’s farm, as most of the ingredients are sourced from there. I can’t quite describe it, but you create a moment in time with the chefs and fellow diners, that makes the evening totally unique and unforgettable. Simon Rogan’s signature farm-to-fork ethos, and the way he grows the majority of produce for all of his restaurants, has been a big inspiration to us at Chapters.'
Where: 16A St Anne's Court, W1F 0BN
Book now: Aulis

Opheem, Birmingham

Charmaine McHugo says: 'I love Opheem because it is so innovative, and I think the way they elevate the flavours of each season is really clever. Spices add such an incredible dimension to each individual element of their dishes, and it shows how transformative seasoning can be. The harmony between chef and grower really comes through and makes it a truly powerful experience. Their Aloo Tuk is the ultimate example of this, as they actually serve the potatoes three different ways - crisps, pillows, and croutons - showing that so much can be created from one humble ingredient.'
Where: 48 Summer Row, B3 1JJ
Book now: Opheem

If you love to make a note of great restaurant recommendations, check out more favourites from Nicholas Balfe, Sebby Holmes and Tom de Keyser. You can also find out all the best restaurants in Wales here.