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My favourite restaurants: Mary-Ellen McTague

The Bury born chef shares her favourite spots in Manchester, and reflects on why the city is now a serious culinary destination.

Updated on • Written By Pete Dreyer

My favourite restaurants: Mary-Ellen McTague

Executive chef of Pip, food writer, and co-founder of Eat Well Manchester - few chefs are as integral to Manchester's dining scene as Mary-Ellen McTague. The Bury born chef has become one of the city's leading lights - she's a pioneer of seasonal, low waste British eating, and a trailblazer when it comes to social enterprise. Who better to give us a whistle-stop tour around Manchester with a collection of favourite spots?

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Mary-Ellen has seen Manchester’s food scene evolve from a handful of hopefuls to a thriving, collaborative ecosystem. ‘The culinary landscape is unrecognisable now compared to what it was ten years ago - or even five,' she says. 'Ten years ago, there were just tiny pockets of individuals trying to do their thing. There was no real restaurant scene.’

The transformation isn’t just about quantity - it’s about quality. Manchester’s food culture has matured, embracing the incredible bounty of produce that surrounds the city. Aside from the fruit and vegetables that are grown here, this is also a cheesemaking heartland, home to exceptional bakeries, and some of the country’s oldest breweries.

‘Before I moved back to Manchester, I was working at The Fat Duck, and obviously we had access to all the London suppliers. When I moved back, it was hard to find good local produce. But that’s completely changed now.’ She points out the impact of Cinderwood Market Garden as particularly important - the 1.5 acre market garden, founded by Higher Ground owners Joe Otway, Richard Cossins, and Daniel Craig Martin focuses on biodiversity, growing fruit and veg to supply a number of top Manchester restaurants. ‘Joe, Richard, and Daniel - they’ve really levelled things up for everyone,’ she says.

The collaborative spirit of the city’s chefs is another key ingredient, she says. Where some cities are hugely competitive, over produce, customers and airtime, Manchester remains much more cohesive, with restaurants keen to help each other out. ‘Before I started Eat Well, I didn’t know that many other chefs, because I’d worked away from Manchester for a lot of my career. But since I’ve been back, I’ve got to know loads of chefs and restaurant owners, and it’s been brilliant.’

So, where does Mary-Ellen go to eat when she has a spare moment? She gave us a list of recommendations - consider this your Manchester restaurant hit list.

10 Tib Lane, Manchester

10 tib lane wine pour

Mary-Ellen says: ‘I’m going to start with 10 Tib Lane, because I go there so often. It’s my favourite place to meet friends for drinks. The cocktails are always brilliant - innovative but balanced, and they do the classics beautifully too. It’s a cool hangout, and the food’s excellent - perfect drinking food: hash browns, oysters, a plate of meat, and cocktails. A perfect evening.’
Where: 10 Tib Lane, M2 4JB
Book now: 10 Tib Lane

Flawd, Manchester

outside flawd

Mary-Ellen says: ‘Sarinam (Flawd head chef) makes the most incredible Korean pickles! The wine is great, the team is great, the music is good, and the vibe is brilliant. Most of their produce comes from Cinderwood Market Garden, same as Higher Ground, so it’s as fresh as it gets. It’s just such a fun place - when I think of Flawd, I think of sunny days, delicious wine, maybe too much of it!
Where:
4-5 Rupert Court, W1D 6DY
Book now: Flawd

Chips at No. 8, Prestwich

octopus hot dog at chips at no 8

Mary-Ellen says: ‘It’s my birthday treat every year: fish and chips and a bottle of Champagne in the garden. The fish is fresh, the chips are perfect - you can taste the quality. They’ve just expanded into a sit-in restaurant. Simple things done really well.’
Where: 6 Clifton Road, Prestwich, M25 3HQ
Book now: Chips at No. 8

Remal, Prestwich

lebanese dishes at remal

Mary-Ellen says: ‘This Lebanese spot in Prestwich is always packed. The takeaway’s good, but eating in is amazing. The hummus, the pittas - everything is incredible. My kids love it. It’s always fully booked so you have to book ahead.’
Where: 501 Bury New Road, Prestwich, M25 1AD
Book now: Remal

Winsome, Manchester

tablecloth tables at winsome

Mary-Ellen says: ‘Sean is an incredible chef. I ate here recently and had an amazing crab dish, and a confit mussel dish that was beautiful. My kids tried things they’d never had before, like tongue, and loved it. The space is great, white walls, kitchen in the middle as the focal point. Drinks are brilliant - Tom from Schofield’s is behind the bar. Everything about it is properly top-class - it’s going to be at the top of a lot of lists very soon.’
Where: 74 Princess Street, Gay Village, M1 6JD
Book now: Winsome

The Parkers Arms, Lancashire

the parkers arms in summer

Mary-Ellen says: ‘I’ve got to get Stosie in here. She’s amazing - a brilliant, naturally gifted chef - the kind of person who can turn a box of fish or half a deer into something stunning without breaking a sweat. I love The Parker’s Arms, it’s a fantastic place.’
Where:
Hallgate Hill, Newton-in-Bowland, BB7 3DY
Book now: The Parkers Arms

Want to read more about the best female chefs in the UK? Browse interviews with the likes of Helene Darroze, Abby Lee and Roberta Hall-McCarron