Queue-averse diners will find solace – and the ability to book a table – in El Asador at Sabor, the third and final part of Basque chef Nieves Barragán Mohacho’s three-pronged Spanish concept on Heddon Street.
El Asador, one floor up from the fino-fuelled bar and tapas counter at street level, tells a traditional story of Spanish country cooking, long family lunches and copious quantities of Rioja. It looks the part too, with its wrought-iron staircase, tiled kitchen, communal tables and short blackboard menu. The Galician steak here has its followers, but most come for suckling pig (quarter, half or whole), cooked in a Castilian wood oven the time-honoured way, to produce crispy, tanned skin and tender flesh that needs only the slightest touch with a knife to fall off the bone. Enjoy with sides of chips (with espelette pepper or mojo rojo, perhaps) and a perfectly dressed tomato salad. For a feast, start with Galician octopus and potatoes or a slice of glossy cuttlefish empanada, its rich filling as black as night.
After that, a few spoons of refreshing goats’ cheese ice cream with a splash of liquorice jus is about all you’ll manage. The Spanish wine list is a pleasure to explore, with plenty by the glass from well-known producers, old and new – another highlight of this Iberian high-flyer.