Barrafina Dean Street

London’s first Barrafina has sparked three offshoots with their own distinct personality (Drury Lane, Adelaide Street, Coal Drops Yard), but the Soho original is the one that corresponds most closely to many people’s idea of the perfect tapas bar – chorizo and chipirones, gambas al ajillo and grilled sardines, all washed down with cava and sherry, Albariño and Tempranillo.

The Hart brothers’ “unbeatable template” shows in the venue’s marble surfaces, open kitchen, red-leather bar stools and mirrors, while the food is “endlessly fascinating and endlessly enjoyable”. As a fail-safe, the Barrafina classics beg to be ordered. A trio of prawns, pale and pink, arrives fresh from a sizzle on the plancha scattered with thick slices of crunchy fried garlic. There’s more garlic in the puréed tomato dripping off a slice of toasted sourdough. Made-to-order tortilla – plain for preference, prawn and piquillo for a change – leaks egg yolk at the gentlest prod of a fork.

But don’t ignore the daily specials chalked up on the blackboard. Deep-fried artichoke flowers, prickly as sea urchins, or crisp nuggets of battered cod with a gazpacho-like salmorejo sauce are far classier than your average tapas. And save space for a slice of Santiago tart, as sweetly almondy as a glass of Amaretto.

Downsides? There’s only one. Unless you arrive before 6pm, you can forget about getting a stool at the marble bar in under an hour, though ever-charming staff are on hand to feed the queue with oozing ham croquetas and glasses of their “sublime” own-label Manzanilla (“a perfect partner for the entire menu”, as it happens). Our advice? Pop in for an off-peak lunch and plan a siesta afterwards.   

Barrafina Dean Street is a Spanish tapas restaurant located in the heart of Soho, London. The restaurant occupies a compact ground-floor space on Dean Street and follows a counter-dining format built around an open kitchen. A long L-shaped marble counter runs through the centre of the room, lined with red leather stools that face directly onto the chefs’ workspace. There are no separate dining tables, and service operates on a first-come, first-served basis. Guests waiting for a seat can stand at the bar area or on the covered terrace outside, which provides additional space for drinks and small plates.

The interior is bright and functional, with tiled walls, polished surfaces and minimal decoration. The open kitchen forms the central feature of the room, allowing diners to watch each dish being prepared and plated. Lighting is focused along the counter, giving the space a clear, direct atmosphere that reflects the restaurant’s informal and efficient service style.

The menu focuses on contemporary Spanish tapas with an emphasis on regional ingredients and daily specials. Dishes change according to seasonal produce and often include seafood, grilled meats and traditional small plates from across Spain. The format encourages ordering a selection of plates to share, served as soon as they are ready rather than in courses.

The drinks list features Spanish wines, sherries and cavas chosen to complement the food, with options available by the glass or bottle. Service is handled directly by the chefs and bar staff, maintaining the open, interactive nature of the restaurant.

Barrafina Dean Street operates as part of the wider Barrafina group but retains its own identity through its layout and atmosphere. Its location in Soho, compact design and visible kitchen make it a central example of the group’s counter-dining approach to modern Spanish cooking.