Wiltons

Having graduated from 18th-century shellfish trader to 21st-century seafood aristocrat, Wiltons is proof-positive that selling fish is an honourable calling. Since 1984, this impeccably groomed grandee has been making waves in its current home on upper-crust Jermyn Street, and prospective diners are still expected to arrive suitably attired (jackets and ties please, gents).   

One fan thinks this blue-blooded veteran is “the best seafood restaurant in London”. We wouldn’t go that far, but it’s worth donning your best bib and tucker and switching off your electronic devices for a taste of Wiltons’ superlative molluscs and crustacea, lemon sole Véronique, halibut Newburg, poached turbot and other classics of yore.

If red meat is your idea of heaven, look to the carving trolley for trencherman lunchtime roasts (Romney Marsh lamb, free-range Blythburgh pork etc) or wait until furred and feathered game have their triumphant seasonal moments – think venison Wellington, roast grouse or jugged hare with roast squash and quince.  

To conclude, summon up the past with a plate of soft herring roes on toast or take the sweet option by plumping for a nostalgic dessert such as Bramley apple and Victoria plum crumble with custard – or perhaps Wiltons’ legendary bread-and-butter pud.   

The mood is hushed, archaic and defiantly old school, service is ultra-polite, and the wine list is generously endowed with vintage clarets and Burgundies from the great years. Needless to say, prices are exceedingly high – although astronomical bills are unlikely to trouble the largely male clientele in their Savile row suits and Churchill shoes.

A St James’s institution with centuries of heritage, Wiltons has been serving British seafood and shellfish since 1742, when it began as a stall selling oysters, shrimps and cockles. It became a fully fledged restaurant in 1840 and has since moved across several nearby locations before settling into its elegant home on Jermyn Street in 1984. Throughout it all, Wiltons has remained committed to its roots, still offering an impressive selection of oysters and caviar alongside a menu of refined British classics.

Step inside and you’ll find an opulent setting with traditional British charm. The decor features green velvet booth seating, red velvet curtains, white tablecloths and elegant table lamps, with frosted glass partitions, chandeliers and walls adorned with traditional artwork and equestrian paintings. The atmosphere is timeless, making it a fitting choice for romantic dinners, business lunches, birthday celebrations or group dining with family and friends.

The a la carte menu showcases the best of British produce. Starters include Devon smoked eel with horseradish, potted shrimp, lobster cocktail or salmon ceviche, while mains span Dover sole, turbot, native lobster and grills such as lamb kidneys and bacon or mixed grill. Vegetarians are also well looked after with risottos and seasonal vegetable sides like cauliflower cheese or samphire with lemon olive oil.

Wiltons also offers a seasonal set menu, offering two- or three-course options, available Monday to Friday lunch, and early evenings Monday and Saturday. Expect classic dishes like rock oysters or beetroot and gin-cured salmon, followed by grilled plaice with cherry vine tomatoes or lamb chops with rainbow chard, and traditional puddings such as Pimm’s jelly or apple crumble.