If you’re not familiar with Nicholas Balfe, here’s a quick introduction. Born and raised in Somerset, the go-getter chef found his footing in some of London’s top kitchens before opening his first restaurant just four years into his career. Having found success in the capital, Balfe moved back to his home county, and now leads the kitchen at his produce-led restaurant, HOLM.
For Balfe, it wasn’t love at first sight when it came to cooking. Like many, his early experiences in the kitchen involved pot-washing for pocket money and working shifts while at university. He graduated with a marketing degree and headed straight into corporate life, but by 26 years old, he’d grown tired of the 9-to-5 and turned to cooking in his spare time as a creative outlet.
Balfe took the plunge and left his marketing job to pursue food, cutting his teeth through pop-ups and stages at respected spots like Moro and St John. He landed a job at Rochelle Canteen where he refined his skills under Margot Henderson, before moving to a head chef role at Jackson Boxer’s Brunswick House. Then, with just four years’ experience, he took another leap of faith and opened his own restaurant.
First came Salon in Brixton Market, followed by Levan in Peckham - both shaped by his love of European, bistro-style cooking. While Salon has since closed, Levan remains hugely popular for its effortless modern European cuisine and consistent run of cool pop-ups.
Drawn by the appeal of countryside living and closer ties to local suppliers, Balfe decided it was time to leave London and return to Somerset. In 2020, he opened HOLM in South Petherton, offering hyper-seasonal dishes and thoughtfully sourced ingredients. Three years later, he stepped back from Levan, leaving it in the hands of business partners Mark Gurney and Matt Bushnell to focus solely on HOLM.
More recently, Balfe appeared on Great British Menu 2025, reaching the Judges’ Chamber before narrowly missing out on the finals to winner Amber Francis. For a taste of Balfe’s off-screen cooking, a trip to HOLM is well worth it - and if Somerset is too much of a stretch, perhaps some of his favourite restaurants are closer to you.
Coombeshead Farm, Cornwall
![dining room with blankets and wooden beams and steak with jus]()
Nicholas Balfe says: 'Coombeshead Farm is a little country haven of tranquillity, tucked away in the hills and valleys of East Cornwall. Chef-owner - maybe more accurately, farmer - Tom Adams is so incredibly committed to his principles, serving a simple, stripped-back menu of produce sourced almost entirely from his own and surrounding farms. The in-house charcuterie and sourdough bread are superlative and objectively best-in-class.'
Where: Lewannick, PL15 7QQ
Book now: Coombeshead Farm
Rochelle Canteen, London
![stuffed vine leaves and whole fish with capers and lemon]()
Nicholas Balfe says: 'Probably the London restaurant I've dined at more than any other. I worked there briefly way back in 2010/2011 and have circled around it ever since - celebrating birthdays, catching up with friends, and going on early dates with my now-wife... and later, when she was eight months pregnant with our second child, just a couple of weeks before leaving London for Somerset. There's nowhere better to enjoy some precise yet homely food, especially when the sun is shining and the outdoor tables are open.'
Where: 16 Playground Gardens, E2 7FA
Book now: Rochelle Canteen
Hive Beach Cafe, Dorset
![family eating at beachside restaurant and fish with vegetables and lemon]()
Nicholas Balfe says: 'This is something of an institution in the South West. It's essentially a marquee on the beach, overlooking a stunning stretch of the Jurassic Coast. The food is simple and generous with lots of fish and seafood, done well. The menu changes often with some creative specials popping up from time to time, but the classic fish and chips always hit the spot, as does the incredibly well-priced lobster with garlic butter.'
Where: Beach Road, DT6 4RF
Book now: Hive Beach Cafe
AGORA, London
![greek small plates with flatbread potatoes and butter beans]()
Nicholas Balfe says: 'We went to OMA, the high-end, Greek-inspired restaurant on the first floor during the opening week, but it took me much longer to brave the queues for the ground-floor souvla bar Agora - wow, was the wait worth it! Delicious, Mediterranean-inspired small plates, incredible freshly baked bread and hummus - served with potato crisps - that is best described as life changing.'
Where: 3 Bedale Street, SE1 9AL
Book now: AGORA
The Hidden Hut, Cornwall
![people eating on outdoor benches and fish with rocket lemon and chips]()
Nicholas Balfe says: 'Literally a hidden beach shack, almost entirely inaccessible by road, cooking incredibly delicious, globally inspired fish, seafood and vegetarian dishes over charcoal as the waves roll in. It could be Goan fish curry one week, a classic boullabaise the next, or a stripped-back smoked mackerel and beetroot salad after that. It's a jaw dropping spot, with incredible food - well worth the effort.'
Where: Porthcurnick Beach, TR2 5EW
Book now: The Hidden Hut
Nicholas Balfe's HOLM is the proud recipient of a SquareMeal Gold Award - to find out which other restaurants we've been loving, check out SquareMeal's official Top 100 restaurants across London and the UK. And if you're after more chef-recommended restaurants, here's where Merlin Labron-Johnson, Amy Poon and Joe Laker love to eat out.