My favourite restaurants: Sebby Holmes

Having played a pivotal role in the opening of Smoking Goat, and now the proud owner of his own Thai restaurant Farang, Sebby Holmes is a titan of Thai cuisine in London.

The chef and restaurateur started his career intending to become a journalist, and while you can still find evidence of Sebby’s way with words via his online blog, his dream of being a full-time writer was short-lived. Not long after graduating, he headed straight to the kitchen, taking on a role at The Begging Bowl in Peckham - known for its unusual, full-throttle Thai cooking.

After climbing the ranks to sous chef, Sebby was approached by Ben Chapman and Brian Hannon (co-founders of the formidable Super 8 hospitality group) with a proposition to come in as head chef for the launch of a new Thai restaurant in Soho - that restaurant was Smoking Goat. These days, Smoking Goat needs little introduction. The highly acclaimed, industry-revered spot is well known for its loud cooking, hyper-fresh produce and buzzy late-night feel - often cited as one of the top tables in London.

Not one to sit still, Sebby began hosting a series of pop-ups alongside his busy day job. Following a run of supper clubs and private catering events, Farang became a fully fledged concept and found a permanent home in a former Italian restaurant in Highbury. Word spread quickly, leading to a review by Giles Coren and queues out the door. Within a year, Farang had earned a Michelin Bib Gourmand award. Today, the restaurant continues to excite diners with authentic produce sourced weekly from Bangkok and a generous feasting menu full of modern twists on Thai classics.

When lockdown arrived and the restaurant industry came to a halt, the go-getting chef was forced to find a new way to keep busy. With the help of his brother Tony, Sebby created Payst - the UK’s first wholesale brand of fresh Thai curry paste, which is now stocked in over 600 shops. Oh, and did we mention he has also written not one, but two, cookbooks?

Whichever way you slice it, Sebby’s commitment to hospitality and passion for produce are seriously impressive. If you want to know his favourite restaurants (in the UK and beyond) then keep reading…

Le Manoir, Oxfordshire

Sebby Holmes says: 'Le Manoir is a place where gastronomy, gardens and culture come alive in the stunning surroundings of rural Oxfordshire. As pioneers of seasonality, sustainability and sourcing locally, chef-patron Raymond Blanc proudly embodies a garden-to-table ethos, growing much of his produce on the grounds of the estate. From sunlit summers to cosy winters, Le Manoir is a haven away from home year-round; I went in the winter and had an exceptional time. With two Michelin stars in a fairytale setting, it is not cheap - so make it a special occasion and say yes to everything. Champagne upon arrival in the lounge, a tasting menu followed by Raymond’s personally selected cheeseboard and boxed off with a whisky in the garden room – yes please. They do have accommodation and although I have never stayed, I imagine it is as outstanding as everything else there is.'
Where: Church Road, OX44 7PD
Book now: Le Manoir

The Clove Club, London

Sebby Holmes says: 'Located in the historic rooms of the Grade II-listed Shoreditch Town Hall, Isaac McHale and the team serve modern, seasonal tasting menus. Every time I have gone, the menu has been dish after dish of the finest ingredients available in the British Isles. Seemingly simple flavours, yet as complex and skilful as cooking can be. The chefs bring each dish to the table and explain the story and idea behind it, making it not only delicious but also educational. An elegant, two Michelin star dining room with a cracking wine selection.'
Where: 380 Old Street, EC1V 9LT
Book now: The Clove Club

Angler, London

Sebby Holmes says: 'Perched at the top of South Place Hotel, Angler is a Michelin-starred restaurant with a beautiful rooftop terrace, showcasing the best sustainable seafood from British waters. The kitchen only uses ingredients of the highest quality and, my God, it is delicious. I would strongly recommend opting for the tasting menu, as I was blown away by it. They also have a great wine menu, which can be expertly paired with the seasonally changing tasting menu.'
Where: 3 South Place, EC2M 2AF
Book now: Angler

Hoppers, London

Sebby Holmes says: 'Hoppers Soho is inspired by Sri Lanka’s village toddy shops. They serve hoppers, dosas, kothus and roasts, complemented by a tropical drinks list which has genever and arrack at its heart. Owner Karan Gokani is not only one of the nicest guys in hospitality; he and his ever-growing team cook up some of the best Sri Lankan food in the UK. I have eaten at Hoppers Soho and King's Cross many times, and the food is consistently delicious, as well as being great value for money. Don’t miss out on the Green Peppercorn Chicken, the Chilli Cheese Dosa and the Egg Hopper.'
Where: Various London locations
Book now: Hoppers Soho; Hoppers King's Cross; Hoppers Shoreditch; Hoppers Marylebone

Sambrub Sambrub Thai, Bangkok

Sebby Holmes says: 'Located in Bangkok, Thailand, chef Prin has been paving the way for Thai cuisine with his unwavering passion for preserving ancient Thai recipes. Growing up in a family of farmers in northern Thailand, chef Prin became mesmerised by Thai cooking traditions and started his outstanding culinary career. He and his wife, Mint, serve regularly changing tasting menus, put together using ingredients sourced locally from villages and farms across Thailand. If you are lucky, they might show you the ancient recipe books that they use to reinvent their dishes. An inspirational meal that you will never forget.'
Where: 39/11 Yommarat Alley, 10500

Are you the kind of person that's always taking notes of new restaurant recommendations? Then, you should check out SquareMeal's official list of the Top 100 Restaurants in London and the UK. Plus, you can find out where more chefs like to eat, including Amy Poon, Joe Laker and Stu Deeley.