Brunswick House

British·
££££
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Silver Award
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SquareMeal Review of Brunswick House

Silver Award

Of all the cities across the globe, nowhere does contrast quite like London. Here, old rubs up next to new, and eclectic concepts come to life in places you wouldn’t expect. Brunswick House is a top-tier example of this; a huge, historic mansion house, sitting oddly alone, amidst the ugliness of Vauxhall roundabout. The staff muse that, ‘it’s amazing that nothing has happened to it,’ speaking of the Grade-II listed building which dates back to 1758. It has escaped property developers and the like, retaining its magic and serving as a characterful venue which spans a garden café, all-day dining room and several floors of private booking spaces.

There is so much to see here, from the candlelit cellar hosting jazz nights, to the tiny staircase leading to the attic, cordoned off with a red carpet for the building’s owner to access his in-house home. As we say, it’s magic. But, this isn’t a case of style over substance and when it comes to food, founder and chef Jackson Boxer continues the theme of contrast with daily changing dishes which somehow feel familiar and yet totally unexpected.

Overall, the menu is rooted in European and British cuisine, littered with name-checked suppliers like Linley Farm’s crunchy cucumbers which are served with a white gazpacho, finished with zingy pickled grapes, aromatic Korean mint and puffed rice for texture. See, probably not how you usually enjoy cucumbers? And, while you might assume to know what’s up when it comes to a devilled egg, this one comes aesthetically arranged, topped with popping trout roe and nutty sesame, making the experience both delicious and fun.

Across the curation of smaller and larger plates you’ll find a good spread of vegetarian, pescatarian and meat-based dishes, but we settled on the roast chicken, decorated with Dorset clams, sitting in moqueca broth. And, there it is again, that sense of surprise to bring impossibly succulent, on-the-bone chicken, together with a fishy stew and tiny clams but it absolutely works and was so moreish that we kept gorging, long after we should have.

If you’re a pudding person, you’ll be delighted by the ice-cold banana parfait, sandwiched inside a spelt waffle with a rich, indulgent coffee molasses, but you should also try the soft milk cake, with sticky English plums and earthy miso Chantilly. It’s one of those dishes that will have you hashing out the flavours with your date long after you’ve eaten it, in fact, they all will.

Good to know

Average Price
££££ - £30 - £49
Cuisines
British
Ambience
Glamorous, Traditional
Food Occasions
Dinner, Lunch
Special Features
Vegetarian options
People
Dates, Group dining [8+]
Food Hygiene Rating

Location

30 Wandsworth Road, Vauxhall, London, SW8 2LG

020 7720 2926 020 7720 2926

Website

Opening Times

Lunch
Mon Closed
Tue Closed
Wed 12:00-14:30
Thu 12:00-14:30
Fri 12:00-14:30
Sat 12:00-14:30
Sun 12:00-16:30
Dinner
Mon Closed
Tue 17:00-21:45
Wed 17:00-21:45
Thu 17:00-21:45
Fri 17:00-21:45
Sat 17:00-21:45
Sun Closed

Reviews

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3 Reviews 
Food/Drink
Service
Atmosphere
Value

Ed B

17 March 2015  
Food & Drink 4
Service 4
Atmosphere 4.5
Value 4
Quirky venue!
Eating at Brunswick House for the first time is a tad surreal. Sitting in a room that feels part theatre, part architectural salvage yard and part bar where pretty much everything that isn't bolted down (and some that is) appears to be for sale is a little distracting. But at least there's no excuse for conversation to dry up. I've eaten there several times, and will be back for more. The menu is well priced, and although not extensive, there's always a good choice.

Miguel E

02 August 2014  
Food & Drink 4
Service 5
Atmosphere 4
Value 4
After being unceremoniously turned away from the Fentiman Arms at 10:04pm on a Saturday night, I found the Brunswick House Cafe, who gave me a very warm welcome. Great service, good food, interesting wine list and curious decor, I would highly recommend this.

Anna L

19 July 2012  
Food & Drink 4
Service 4.5
Atmosphere 4
Value 4
I don't understand the negative reviews on here. This is a local for us and we've always found the service to be warm and upbeat and the food to be based on very good ingredients cooked with plenty of heart. Clearly plenty of local folk agree, as the dining room tends to be packed for lunch, especially on Thursday and Friday. It certainly beats the characterless chain pub in the development next door.
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Call Brunswick House to make a booking on:

020 7720 2926 020 7720 2926

Visit their website

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