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It’s worth braving the traffic chaos of Vauxhall gyratory to find Brunswick House – a characterful oasis amid soulless high-rises. Framed by glass-fronted apartments, the Georgian building harks back to Vauxhall’s ‘pleasure garden’ days – although it now serves as an architectural salvage shop, within which the café does its thing. The kitchen serves up modestly priced seasonal dishes in a dining room filled with the shop’s more wacky curios – think antique toy cars, giant clocks and gaudy chandeliers. Dishes pack plenty of flavour: think Saddleback neck fillet with swiss chard (cut through with a sharp apple mustard), bavette tartare with mussels and dripping toast or chargrilled lamb dressed with chilli and yoghurt. Regulars also praise the weekend brunch, while service is sprightly and a surprisingly good wine list offers plenty by the carafe.
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