Levan

There’s nothing wrong with the breakneck speed of London’s restaurant scene, but the allure of trendy new openings in Soho and Mayfair can distract from dependable local restaurants all the way out in… Zone Two.

Levan is one of those neighbourhood haunts that leaves you wishing you were counted among its regulars. You might start next door at Bar Levan with cocktails and snacks (the miso devilled egg with nori are very good) before moving through to the dining room proper. Here there’s the choice of à la carte or a chef’s menu, and the spectrum of experiences allows for changeable feasts depending on the occasion.

There’s something about snacks and starters that always outshine the main events. Maybe it’s the first satiation of hunger, but here it might also have something to do with the accompanying Crémant – smooth and creamy with streaming effervescence.

Whatever their size and style, dishes appear to be built around singular key ingredients and fleshed out from there. Sweet Comté cheese forms the crowning glory on a pile of golden panisse chips, while generously portioned smoked haddock fills puffed-up little beignets with a rich lick of hickory.

Mains are a celebration of seasonal produce. Nothing new maybe, but they’re done well and there are little sparks of ingenuity in dishes like gnocchi with a sweet and tangy black garlic sauce that has plate-scraping appeal. A rich short rib could be eaten with a spoon, and when accompanied by moussey duchess potatoes and a crisp salad, becomes wonderful.

Service is the metaphorical cherry on top, with a well-polished team proficient in the art of a gracious welcome working the dining room.

Levan offers more than just a meal: it’s a refuge, an escape, and a reminder that sometimes, simple pleasures done well are all you need in amongst the madness.

Levan is a cosy, neighbourhood restaurant in South London's Peckham, serving up an inventive menu in a relaxed setting. Generally speaking, the cuisine is earmarked as European, but is inspired by a diverse range of cities across the continent. Restaurants in Paris, Copenhagen, Barcelona, Stockholm and Berlin have all contributed to this eatery's vibe, which might explain why it feels so effortlessly cosmopolitan. 

Day drinkers will love Levan which laments itself as an all-day bar with a strong focus on natural wine. The restaurant works with small artisanal producers, based across France, Germany, Italy and Spain, to curate a selection of quality, low-intervention, organic and biodynamic wines. By the glass, you can try the house Pet Nat, a healthy selection of whites and reds, and a skin contact rose. When buying by the bottle, the offering ups significantly and includes skin contact orange wine, too. We also like that each bottle comes with a mini description, which is often quite humourous, as a cute touch. 

The menu is a la carte and designed not to overwhelm, presenting a neat selection of snacks and sharing dishes. Nibbles for the table consist of comte fries with saffron aioli, sardines with lemon and olive oil and sourdough with whipped butter. Move on to the sharing plates and there's something for everyone. Carnivores will be pleased to see ham hock terrine with celeriac and Hokkaido milk bread, as well as lamb, carrot and morel. There's also sea bream, ceviche, rhubarb and coriander, alongside trout, sesame and little gem. Veggie plates are furnished with the likes of burrata, pine nuts and puntarelle, as well as tortellini, ricotta and lemon. There's also the chance to try the chef's favourite dishes by opting in for a surprise set tasting menu.

The space itself is stylish but understated, characterised by colbalt-blue walls, warm-toned wooden furniture and accessories such as vinyl records and wine bottles displayed on shelves.