Holm

Food inspired by 'nature and our surroundings in the beautiful South West of England' is how Holm Somerset bills itself, and it certainly hits that nail on the head. Trading South London for South Petherton, restaurateurs Nicholas Balfe, Matt Gurney, and Matt Bushnell have expanded away from the likes of Brixton and Peckham to the vaster, calmer countryside, and join a cavalcade of high quality restaurants going to bat in the South West.

Taking residence in a former bank in the small town of South Petherton - which means this is one of few high-end restaurants with a working ATM on its premises - you might wonder how a full kitchen and excellent outdoor seating have been squeezed into what surely used to be a stuffy vault. But beyond the rustic chic of bare brick and plaster walls lies a core belief in being inspired by the local countryside, and looking through the menu of local and home-grown ingredients, that shines through with aplomb.

Head chef Henry Osmond - formerly of nearby At The Chapel in Bruton - works alongside Balfe to pull together a menu full of local flavour, all inspired by the leafy surroundings. What's on offer is what you might expect at a high-end London restaurant, but not at the same steep prices - and it would appear the sleepy nature of the countryside gives a more laid back feel to some of the morsels on offer. Our tasting menu started off with delightful homemade sourdough and a healthy dose of sea-salt whipped butter, a plate of Westcombe Cheddar fries that are unforgettable and tangy, a dish of smacked cucumber and sesame, and a refreshing chilled courgette soup. Somerset tomatoes, served with garden herbs make for an ideal palate cleanser, safe in the knowledge that its core ingredients lay mere a few feet outside.

Highlights included a Chalk Stream trout, along with an incredible Otter Valley Farm Old Spot that melted in the mouth, and an optional Cornish lobster linguine with chilli and bisque is an almost essential addition. A devilishly simple plum served with milk ice cream and honeycomb is one of the scene stealers, rounding off a stunning meal that makes Holm more than worth the journey. 

Holm is a modern and inviting restaurant in Somerset, serving a contemporary menu of locally inspired dishes and seasonal produce. It is the fourth restaurant from the team behind London restaurants Salon, Levan and Larry’s. You will find an a la carte menu, plus a chef’s tasting menu, lunch and vegetarian options available. There is also a Sunday lunch menu, featuring the likes of Alford Farm pork belly with red cabbage and black pudding. 

The restaurant itself is a light and airy space with an open kitchen and a bar area. If you’re visiting for dinner you will find a seasonal and changing menu, however, you may find dishes such as smoked pumpkin soup served with yoghurt, and barbecued squid served with Jerusalem artichoke. For mains, dishes might include baked celeriac with truffle and hazelnut, or gilt-head bream with crown prince squash and brown butter. There is also a selection of side dishes to choose from, plus dessert and a choice of Somerset cheeses. 

If you’re visiting for Sunday lunch you may find dishes such as mallard to share served with confit leg, red cabbage and bread sauce, and a roasted celeriac served with girolles, and mushroom ketchup.

The wine list has been thoughtfully crafted and features many organic wines from small artisan producers. The restaurant has its own wine vault, which stores a number of locally sourced ciders, perries and wines. The house negroni is famous and you'll often see seasonal cocktails too.

Nicholas Balfe is the co-founder and chef director at Holm, while Mark Gurney and Matt Bushnell form the rest of the founding team. The restaurant is housed in a former bank and sits on a large quarter acre plot in the heart of the village of South Petherton.