Winning a Michelin star is one thing, but receiving the award just nine months after opening your first restaurant is quite another. At 24-years-old, Merlin Labron-Johnson achieved what many chefs only dream of with his debut restaurant Portland - and he was only getting started.
In many ways, Merlin’s career began back when he was in school, when he muscled his way into the school kitchen, offering to wash pots and peel potatoes in exchange for free meals.
It seems Michelin was always at the forefront of his mind - Merlin moved to Abode in Exeter to learn from Michelin-starred chef Michael Caines and later worked under Simon Hulstone at one-starred Elephant in Torquay. But, like many 18-year-olds, the urge to travel was calling, and Merlin headed overseas in search of pastures new.
He moved between two-starred restaurants in both Switzerland and France, before landing in Belgium’s countryside for a pivotal role at In de Wulf. Renowned for working without timers, thermometers and - in most cases - recipes, the notorious, field-to-table restaurant transformed Merlin’s outlook on food. Here, he developed a love for fermenting, foraging, and pickling - much of which you’ll find at his current restaurant, Osip.
But, back to the star. After two years at In de Wulf, Merlin was approached to start a restaurant in London, and in 2015, Portland launched to critical acclaim, securing a Michelin star just nine months after opening. Riding on the back of its success, Merlin opened a sister restaurant round the corner, Clipstone, which went on to win a Bib Gourmand award.
While London had treated him well, Merlin felt a calling back to the countryside and opened Osip in Somerset. It’s a tiny, 22-seater destination restaurant, serving vegetable-forward dishes that change depending on what arrives from the farm each morning. In a nod to In de Wulf, there’s no menu, and in true Merlin style, it won a Michelin star after eight months of trading.
Undoubtedly, Merlin is an impressive chef, but if you can’t make it down to Osip to try his food, perhaps you’ll visit some of his other favourite restaurants. Here are his front-runners!
AngloThai, London
![caviar on ice and pork with green peppers]()
Merlin Labron-Johnson says: 'AngloThai is an exciting addition to London’s hospitality scene. Their interesting take on Thai food feels incredibly special, and eating Thai food in such an elevated setting was a first for me. I think John is very clever at weaving British ingredients into his cooking too - the Brixham Crab and Exmoor caviar dish are my favourite!'
Where: 22-24 Seymour Place, W1H 7NL
Book now: AngloThai
Dongnae, Bristol
![dongnae founders and dish with charred corned]()
Merlin Labron-Johnson says: 'Dongnae is one of my favourite out-of-London restaurants. It offers a really fresh, modern approach to Korean cooking, which we don’t see very much of in the UK, and something I haven’t experienced much of personally. There’s dishes cooked over the grill, fresh and raw plates, sharing dishes and much more. Kyu and Duncan, the founders, have become friends since my first visit, and they have done a great job at creating a perfectly contemporary, wholesome, neighbourhood restaurant.'
Where: 5-7 Chandos Road, BS6 6PG
Book now: Dongnae
Brawn, London
![dining room with wine bottle wall rack and pumpkin tortellini]()
Merlin Labron-Johnson says: 'Brawn is an East London institution that never misses and London is lucky to have it. It strikes this brilliant balance of feeling incredibly casual, offering consistently great cooking, all while having a beautiful dining room and excellent service. I always go for one of their pasta dishes, or anything with anchovies. Ed, the owner, is an anchovy enthusiast, so you will be in safe hands. The lemon tart is not to be missed too.'
Where: 49 Columbia Road, E2 7RG
Book now: Brawn
Luca, London
![restaurant courtyard with fireplace and pasta dish with mushrooms and parmesan]()
Merlin Labron-Johnson says: 'Luca is a classic, date-night restaurant and I love it. The pasta is knockout and it has that fun, buzzy city restaurant feel. I live in a cottage in a little valley in the middle of nowhere, so it’s always great fun to enjoy the juxtaposition of that - going into the big city and having a night out in a grown-up restaurant!'
Where: 88 St John Street, EC1M 4EH
Book now: Luca
Leo's, London
![restaurant blackboard with white tablecloths and ravioli in sage butter]()
Merlin Labron-Johnson says: 'I’ve visited Leo’s quite a few times to try their different offerings, and every visit has been excellent. During the week, they serve a breakfast and lunch that almost blurs into one and feels very authentic and unique. There’s pastries, frittata, unfussy lunch plates and delicious coffee from speciality European roasters. On Sundays, they offer an amazing lunch that’s served feasting, family style. Throughout they have a great list of drinks, with a specific mention for their Amaro collection.'
Where: 59 Chatsworth Road, E5 0LH
Book now: Leo's
If you'd like to hear more stories from some of the UK's top chefs, check out our interview with the founders of Wilsons in Bristol - SquareMeal's UK Restaurant of the Year 2026! And if restaurant recommendations are your thing, here's where Amy Poon, Joe Laker, and Lisa Goodwin-Allen love to eat out.