SquareMeal Review of
This classy Prescott & Conran venture is named after the Design Museum’s pointed roof, while the restaurant’s own quirk is that various chefs and personalities (such as Pidgin co-owner James Ramsden, or Valentine Warner from BBC2’s What To Eat Now) take it in turns to provide its moderately pricey set dinner menu. The smart, comfortable dining room has views of both the museum’s central atrium and Holland Park, while the decor is as meticulously designed as you would expect: bag a cosy, navy-blue booth or perch at the pewter-topped cocktail bar. With the museum shut before evening service begins, it can feel somewhat isolated, but those big-name draws should cultivate a buzzing crowd. Breakfast, lunch and afternoon services are taken care of by Mark Hix protégée Graham Blower, cooking the seasonal likes of buckwheat tabbouleh and violet artichokes or sea bream with fennel. Cocktails take inspiration from the shrubs and botanicals of the nearby Kyoto Garden, while the rotating chef angle takes this beyond the usual museum restaurant – which suits the assured Parabola perfectly.