SquareMeal Review
Silver Award
A glamorous all-day affair that’s completely at home in this chic corner of Chelsea, Hans’ links the five-star 11 Cadogan Gardens hotel with Pavilion Road. Smartly dressed staff lead you to the stylish dining room, a calming oasis where plants hang from the ceiling and white marble tabletops are paired with comfy pea-green chairs.
Similar refinement is evident in the concise menu of smart European dishes: six starters, five mains and meats from the grill. We began with snacks, including crispy peppered squid served with a tangy citrus aïoli, before starters of pleasingly fresh Brixham crab prettily decorated with juicy chunks of apple (looks are important here). To follow, main-course steaks or poached salmon are worth considering, but we opted for an artistically presented plate of ricotta and truffle gnocchi: a surprisingly light, fluffy dish made tastier with the subtle addition of spinach. Another choice, pimped-up Wagyu beefburger, arrived sandwiched between a brioche bun and layered with Emmental and pancetta. Desserts include a crumbly, slightly bitter orange cake served with a scoop of almond sorbet, and the notable drinks list contains almost 200 wines together with plenty of classic cocktails.
With a well-executed (if slightly predictable) menu and lavish surrounds, Hans’ is well-suited to its moneyed clientele – from Chelsea’s bright young things to mature ladies who lunch. If dinner seems too big a commitment, try the breakfast where freshly-baked pastries and an English breakfast are among the enticements.