SquareMeal Review of
You won’t find anything ground-breaking or trendy at this top-end ristorante, but Latium’s subdued class and premium produce have been impressing readers since 2003. While the interior’s black tiles, gleaming cloths, prints of Italiana and patriotic green and red leather seating are hardly big statements, its well-spaced tables, discreet service and mature, sedate atmosphere are clearly valued by regulars. Meals follow a traditional four-course format with, maybe, slivers of smoked duck, artichoke and Parmesan, or classic truffle and mushroom arancini as antipasti, ahead of speciality ravioli – try sea bass in lemon butter with bottarga, or veal in pea cream with morels. After that, grilled meat or fish feature as simple secondi (rib-eye steak with guanciale and green beans was a winner for us), while the tiramisu dessert is thick, rich and generous. The wine list is a serious selection spanning every corner of Italy’s topographical ‘boot’, and “affordable” prices are a bonus across the board.