First impressions count, and Solaya knows it. The climb to the 25th floor of art’otel London Hoxton sets the scene: lift doors slide open and you’re hit with blinding rays pouring through panoramic windows. A Mediterranean-inspired restaurant named for the sun? They’ve got the light nailed, though, honestly, a few blinds wouldn’t hurt.
The space itself is impressive. Imagine a giant glass doughnut crowning the hotel, with dizzying views across the city. Inside, the room burns like dusk: cushy tan armchairs and bold yellows caramelise into copper, chestnut and charcoal. The vibe shifts with the daylight - bright and airy at lunch, sultry and golden come evening.
The big draw here is Kenny Atkinson, the Michelin-starred Geordie chef behind Newcastle’s House of Tides and Solstice. Solaya doesn’t feel related to those restaurants, though, so don’t come expecting fine-dining fireworks. What it does deliver is ‘sunshine on a plate’ cooking. Creamy wild mushroom croquettes showered with Parmesan, scallops crudo with a zippy sauce vierge, and mussel skewers bathed in ’nduja butter cream are all hits, as is a smoky Paloma, which catches the sun in eye-pleasing fashion.
Mains are made for sharing: whole seabass, a bouillabaisse stacked with shellfish and snapper, and a chicken bourguignon. The bouillabaisse is excellent - perfectly cooked fish, saffron-soaked potatoes, and a langoustine bisque begging for extra focaccia. Dessert is good too - a crisp apple tarte fine topped with vanilla ice cream.
It’s hard to find much fault with Solaya, really, except that it plays things a little safe, especially given the buzz of Atkinson’s London debut. Still, there’s much to like - it’s stylish, confident, and undeniably photogenic. It might not push boundaries, but when the cooking’s this assured, and the view this good, you probably won’t mind.