Gwen

Chefs spend careers chasing big ideas. It’s a route Peter Sanchez Iglesias knows well, having steered Casamia, then Paco Tapas, into the ranks of the UK’s fine dining elite. Both Michelin-starred, then closed and much missed, the obvious move would be to embark on a new high-profile project. Instead, he’s taken to the coals in another’s: Gwen, the eight-seat restaurant in Machynlleth, owned by Ynyshir’s Gareth Ward. He hasn’t renamed it, bought it, or erased what’s gone before – the move reflects a simpler ambition: to cook.

The motivation might be humble, but 20 courses of brilliant, highly technical cooking pulled from Spain, Mexico and Italy is anything but. Guests move across two intimate, coal-black spaces; starting in the front room, looking towards the small cold kitchen counter, before slipping behind a curtain to take up a spot within singeing distance of the open grill.

Armed with just one assistant in the kitchen, Sanchez-Iglesias jumps from Iberian comforts to blue-chip luxuries. Gildas, pimped with raw tuna, top-shelf anchovies and a sliver of olive, sit skewered and suspended above a cleansing, post-bite consomme; rich, fluffy parmesan mousse conceals a lick of sweet aged balsamic; and Isle of White tomato follows, layered with stracciatella smoked tomato jam and Tahitian vanilla. The results are euphoric; that vanilla might seem a little madcap, but it’s the perfect foil to creamy cheese and fragrant tomato bright with acidity.

Ferried through the veil into the dining room proper, one moment we’re dipping into chickpea stew, seasoned with miso and split with chorizo oil, which smacks of cocino Madrileno; the next, it’s seared Wagyu (A5, no less) perched on a shining puddle of slick, smoky adobo.

Duroc pork rib – a nod to Casamia – sous vide, flashed on the fire, presented with due ceremony on a ceramic cradle, comes glazed in sharp, smoky al pastor, while Wagyu trim finds new life in intense chili form, ladled over sticky sushi rice and teamed with humble toast soldiers loaded with butter. Favourites at every turn, we could go on, but trust this: there’s not a dud in sight.

Gwen sees Sanchez-Iglesias pictured in hi-res – no sprawling flagship required. In fact, Gwen is so small it even falls below the business rates threshold; turns out, three staff, eight seats, and 20 courses are all he needs to remind you he’s one of the UK’s greatest chefs.

Gwen, the sister restaurant to Ynyshir, offers an intensely intimate and carefully choreographed tasting menu experience in Machynlleth. Led by chef Peter Sanchez-Iglesias, the restaurant distils the spirit of his career – including time spent at acclaimed Bristol restaurants Casamia and Paco Tapas, as well as Decimo in London – into a highly personal format shaped by instinct, craft and creativity.

The room itself is strikingly compact, with just eight seats set within a narrow, atmospheric space. At its heart are two open kitchens, around which the experience unfolds. Guests move through the restaurant over the course of the meal, engaging directly with the cooking process and the team behind it. The kitchen is deliberately small, typically comprising Sanchez-Iglesias and a single assistant, reinforcing the sense of precision and focus.

The multi-course tasting menu draws on global influences filtered through the chef’s own perspective, with an emphasis on exceptional ingredients and a hyper-seasonal approach. Fire plays a central role in the cooking, lending depth and character to dishes that might include combinations such as seafood with rich sauces, bold spice-led preparations, and carefully handled meats alongside house-made elements.

Design comes courtesy of Ynyshir’s Amelia Eiriksson, whose dark, layered interiors are elevated by contributions from local artisans. Bespoke crockery, custom cutlery and hand-forged details create a setting that feels immersive and distinctive without distraction. Drinks are curated with the same level of intent, with a wine list focused on craft producers and low-intervention styles, available by the glass or bottle to pair with the evolving menu. Service is guided by a close-knit front-of-house team, ensuring a seamless and considered progression from start to finish.