SquareMeal Review of Cinnamon Kitchen Battersea
Bold open kitchen at the back, big glass doors at the front, exposed ducting and brickwork everywhere – this is the very model of a modern-day restaurant, with the rejuvenated Battersea Power Station forming a dazzling backdrop. It might be part of a growing group, but the design is entirely bespoke, high on wow factor – note the mezzanine floor in the centre – and with warm lighting and classy banquettes, it all feels high on glamour.
The cooking is as striking as the setting is beautiful. Pitch-perfect chicken breast delivered straight from the tandoor comes with a zingy mint and chilli korma though, for flavour and star-appeal, it was trumped by a melt-in-the-mouth clove-smoked lamb rump served with a fennel and nutmeg sauce.
We shared a series of starters, of which the wild African prawn with coriander and garlic crust was the standout, with its deep and warm but delicately wrought flavours. We loved the soft-yielding texture of aubergine contrasted with a sesame, tamarind and peanut crumble, while ceviche of black bream paired with mango, nigella and pomegranate was as fresh as daisy. A chocolate mousse with cinnamon ice cream delivers a dab of heaven on the tongue to finish, or opt for spicy Indian-inspired craft cocktails, devised by master mixologist Tony Conigliaro.
This is a generous-spirited restaurant, not least because of a top team of smart staff – efficient, knowledgeable and friendly in equal measure. We’re already looking for an excuse to return.
About Cinnamon Kitchen Battersea
The newly redeveloped Battersea power station is home to Cinnamon Kitchen, a modern Indian restaurant serving affordable, colourful dishes with a slight British influence. Providing food throughout the whole day, Cinnamon Kitchen Battersea offers a relaxed atmosphere to enjoy the exciting menu.
Located in a converted railway arch opposite the power station itself, the spacious interior features an open kitchen at the far end of the restaurant, and a striking central mezzanine platform sits in the middle. The curved brick roof of Cinnamon Kitchen combined with its tunnel-like shape, gives the restaurant a certain warehouse-y feel.
The menu is full of dishes you won’t find on the menu of your standard local Indian restaurant. Appetisers include railway style vegetable cake, Malabar mussel and date pickle served on toasted brioche with curried yoghurt, as well as a selection of Bombay street food. There are further options from the grill such as pink aubergine and banana leaf-wrapped seabass.
Main dishes range from vegan dishes such as kale and quinoa kofta, served with date and ginger, and a tomato and lemon sauce, to clove-smoked lamb rump with a fennel and nutmeg sauce. Or if you want something a little more classic, there’s a tandoori chicken breast served a zingy mint chilli korma and pilau rice. All of these can be mopped up with freshly made naan bread or perhaps a tandoori roti.
Desserts lean more towards British classics with sticky ginger toffee pudding, and dark chocolate mousse on the menu; however, the lassi panna cotta and the double ka meetha offer some more traditional alternatives. If you’re finding it hard to decide what to pick, there’s also the option a 9-dish sharing menu for just £33 a head.
To accompany the lavish food, there's a drinks menu featuring Indian-inspired cocktails as well as a range of different wines.