SquareMeal Review of
Dragon Inn Club
We’ve run into Hong Kong-born restaurateur Andrew Hung many times over the years at the likes of Weng Wah House and Bright Courtyard Club, and now he owns restaurants as well as runs them. Dragon Inn Club joins a growing raft of decent places to eat on the Pimlico/Victoria borders and offers pretty much everything for Chinese food fans: tabletop hot-pots in which to simmer Wagyu beef; high-street classics like Peking duck; and, best of all, the menu’s speciality of the chilli-laden cooking of Szechuan province. You could kick off with a cold starter such as dried beef with chilli and sesame – a bit like beef jerky in chilli oil – or excellent prawn ravioli in a subtly spicy vinaigrette. To follow, there’s ma po tofu in a well-balanced chilli stock, dried chilli chicken for diners who like their spicing extra hot and, for something tamer but no less delicious, tender slices of double-cooked pork belly with leek. Vegetable dishes are just as good – don’t miss the sea-spiced aubergine in an alluring hot-and-sour sauce – while well-timed dim sum is top notch too. Upstairs is a contemporary robata grill; the traditional decor of the basement dining room, designed to evoke 8th-century China with wood panelling, bamboo and lanterns, may not be to all tastes, but it’s certainly atmospheric and the eight private booths are worth noting for intimate tête à têtes.