SquareMeal Review of
Colette's at The Grove
The Grove lies just 20 minutes from Euston &, while the exterior is grand & formal, inside is decidedly funky, with the hotel’s fine-dining restaurant, Colette’s, hung with contemporary
paintings & decked out with modish cream leather chairs. Balancing old & new is also evident in the kitchen. A pile of delicate & moist crabmeat, on top of a thin layer of
coriander-cured tuna, is crowned with a generous portion of sevruga caviar. Similarly impressive is the mallard & foie gras: the meat is wrapped around a large portion of liver, then rolled in
a fine layer of breadcrumbs & roasted until crisp. So, when one cuts through the firmly textured meat, out oozes soft – almost liquid – foie gras from the centre. Desserts, too, are
classic-with-a-twist: a mousse-like bitter chocolate tart is partnered with praline ice-cream & a modish shot glass bubbling with a pale yellow citrus foam. Admittedly, all this indulgence does
come at a fairly hefty price, but it’s not a greedy one for such labour-intensive dishes, & service is both cheerful & super efficient.