“I could eat here every day,” declares one devotee of this hot-ticket purveyor of smokin’ Thai BBQ and peasant-style baked claypots filled with spicy regional curries. It’s the second restaurant from Ben Chapman of Smoking Goat fame and – like its sibling – the set-up is casual, with no bookings and obligatory queues.
Turning up really early may solve the problem; otherwise, be prepared to wait for a seat at the long, metal counter that runs alongside the open kitchen, while friendly clued-up staff deliver “slick service” to a soundtrack of classic vinyl from the likes of James Brown.
The short menu of “delicious and innovative” sharing dishes delivers “a taste extravaganza” based on impeccably sourced ingredients from named suppliers. We couldn’t fault a thing on our last visit – especially the soft and smoky turmeric sausages and the cumin-spiked lamb skewers, grilled to perfection and with a bitter spicy edge cutting through the finger-licking fattiness.
Larger pots also delivered a full-on hit, from a sharp and sour turbot curry to an aromatic Burmese beef neck curry, with wild ginger and pickled garlic providing plenty of fresh crunch. And don’t miss the clay-pot glass noodles with pork belly and brown crab meat: a comforting, dense and sticky delight.
The drinks list keeps the bar high, with an eclectic wine selection (note the orange wines and sparkling Riesling), plus craft beers and cider, sophisticated softs and Thai-inspired cocktails such as the dangerously drinkable Young Ginger Margarita. “Kiln deserves every plaudit it receives”, concludes an impressed reader.