The cheese trolley at two Michelin-starred The Ledbury (headed up by gastronomy genius Brett Graham) is hugely popular, and we can see why. There’s something incredibly luxurious about cheese being wheeled around for your indulgence, isn’t there, making the serving ritual almost more enjoyable than the eating. But only almost. Getting stuck into the European cheeses with grapes and a variety of colourful crackers is, simply put, a wonderful experience. Where Graham’s food is elsewhere inventive and contemporary, the cheese offering brings things back to the traditional, and it’s very welcome.