SquareMeal Review of
This cheery member of the ever-growing Geronimo Inns stable has all of the group’s “kitsch charms”, but manages to throw down a few surprise curve balls while delivering on the gastropub basics. Downstairs is decked out in the chain’s usual brand of front-room geniality; upstairs is a more “stately” dining room, with an appealing menu of ‘tapas-style’ Brit dishes for sharing. Eclectic options such as quail salad with lemon, chicory and praline sit alongside Brit stalwarts including potted Hampshire pig, Devon crab cakes and cured Gressingham duck breast with greengage vinaigrette, while those wanting a bigger plateful could order beer-battered haddock, slow-cooked ox-cheek pie or whole roast sea bass with smoked garlic and rainbow chard. Puds have a European flavour, ales are kept in “excellent” order, and almost everything on the food-friendly global wine list is available by the glass.