SquareMeal Review of
The Frog E1
MasterChef alumnus Adam Handling has moved on from his hotel-restaurant digs, landing in east London with concrete floors and a £45 tasting menu. If that sounds a touch cool-for-school, the food is where the fancy comes in. Prepare with a dill Frog G&T then dive into a string of artfully arranged ‘snacks’ (a refreshing bite of crab and apple, perhaps) before a dreamy pause of warm, tart sourdough and whipped chicken butter topped with crisp skin. ‘Dinners’ follow – think moist chunks of piglet with onions, sherry and basil. Luckily, ‘beetroot, beetroot and more beetroot’ is next, once a starter, now wisely a pre-dessert: a jammy, vividly pink roll of flavour hovering between savoury and sweet. Try burnt honey with malt ice cream and lemon to finish (the toffee texture inside the nitro tiramisu was an indulgence too far for us). Dishes are presented straightforwardly by knowledgeable staff, who also deliver well-paired wines and craft beers. While some diners will prefer white linen to blackboards and bare light bulbs, plenty leap to The Frog judging by the buzz on our visit.