SquareMeal Review of
Entrepreneur Hanan Kattan grew up in a Palestinian household and this, her first restaurant, is an ode to the country’s street food. Focused on the lunch trade, at the centre of the menu is a traditional Middle Eastern tabun (clay oven). A choice of wraps lists fillings including grilled akkawi (white brine Palestinian cheese) with avocado, or there’s mezze and larger options such as sumac-marinated shredded chicken or a mixed grill with artichoke. We recommend going in a group, sharing everything and ordering plenty of the light, zesty baba ganoush (called moutabal here), imbued with plenty of smokiness. On a Friday night we discovered a buzzing atmosphere – lubricated by a serviceable, Old-World wine list – which also marks this out as a viable low-priced option for dinner. Not all the flavours sing and the unremarkable dining room feels drab, but this is an option if you’re looking for something cheap and a bit different.