SquareMeal Review of
PERMANENTLY CLOSES AT THE END OF AUGUST 2018
Always a good bet for discreet business lunches and quietly romantic evenings, Sauterelle's combination of hush and plush has been heightened of late with thick carpets, comfortable chairs and a colour palette that contribute to the calm ambience. The views into the Royal Exchange's central court are spectacular, while the cooking has a strong Mediterranean slant. Truffled arancini is paired with kumquat sauce and grated raw butternut squash to sharp effect, expertly timed Old Spot pork fillet is wrapped in pancetta and served with subtle espelette pepper, and it's hard to imagine anything more citrusy than the Amalfi lemon granita with limoncello, yuzu and basil shortbread. Though the bold strokes have been toned down, the food is still prettily plated. Wines include Bordeaux and Burgundies at less than bonus-busting prices, as well as some quirkier options, while "beautifully trained" staff add to the civilised mood.