SquareMeal Review of
The Red Fort
For over three decades, the redoubtable Red Fort has been taking inspiration from India's Mughal Court traditions, combining ancient recipes with a sleek, refined ambience. The interior has seen lots of changes over the years, but its current blend of traditional arch motifs with brown silk walls, soft colours and equally soft lights is most satisfying. Long-serving chef Azadur Rahman sends out "beautifully presented" dishes ranging from starters of charcoal-roasted fig- and cashew-stuffed potatoes or delicately spiced monkfish with ginger to lamb biryani steamed in a sealed pot or stone bass in a sharp mustard and coconut sauce. However, Red Fort is really about charcoal-grilled meats and seafood, from tandoori chicken breast marinated in cardamom to luxurious Scottish lobster dressed with saffron, garlic and cheese. With its hefty international wine list, professional service and years of experience, this is a real Soho classic.