SquareMeal Review of
Fictional criminal mastermind Dr Fu Manchu, the inspiration behind this hangar-like venue, ascribed his longevity to the secret elixir he consumed. His namesake bar – which combines the roles of cocktail joint, dim sum parlour, nightclub and live music lounge – also deals in bracing pick-me-ups. Could mossy Green Tea-ni, touted as ‘full of antioxidant goodness’ (apple, lime, matcha powder and Bombay Sapphire gin) be the key to eternal life? No less stimulating are Secret Essence Of Poppy Hill, Kiss Of Death, Mind Control and a nifty Nikka Japanese whisky twisted Boulevardier (£9.50). The look (think Fu Manchu’s lair) may feel only half there – trowel on loads more lurid kitsch, guys – but the signature potsticker and steamed dumplings are decent value at £15 for eight. In all, this new venture from the owners of The Jam Tree bars (Fulham and Clapham) is great fun.