SquareMeal Review of
Equally popular with whisky-sipping Japanese businessmen and petite girls from nearby Vogue House, Chisou may lack cliquey, celeb-spotting credentials, but it delivers food of real quality in low-key surroundings. The decor is clean and simple, with only some giant plinths embedded with spotlights, but it suits everyone just fine. There are always plenty of takers for the set lunches, when an outlay of around £20 might yield an impressive assortment of nigiri, maki rolls, sashimi and miso soup. In the evening, it’s worth plundering the carte for, say, spicy salmon tartare with raw quail’s egg, deep-fried rock oysters, squid tempura or something from the robata grill – perhaps teriyaki poussin with red wine reduction. Staff in Chisou T-shirts do the rounds, and the saké sampler is an eye-opener for the uninitiated. Arrive early for seats at the sushi counter.