Adam Simmonds had been out of the game for some eight years before this latest launch. In London restaurant years that’s a lifetime, but on the evidence of his new project, his cooking hasn’t missed a beat.
This is the most personal of Simmonds’ restaurants yet, reflected by the thoughtful, poignant messaging around the restaurant. He explains to us during the meal that he is on a mission to simplify his cooking as much as possible, and the lean towards Nordic influences certainly reflects that desire for minimalist perfection.
One thing is for sure - this feels too large and spacious a room for such an intimate experience. Given the choice, we made a beeline for the gleaming, brushed metal chef’s counter at the heart of the restaurant. This is the most honest expression of Simmonds cooking - watching him martial a compact team of chefs and chatting with them throughout the meal. ‘Believe it or not, this is chef’s favourite dish on the menu,’ says one, as they push a bowl in front of us. Inside is a tumble of salt-baked, roasted and fermented celeriac cubes, hiding an umami-bomb sauce of shiitake, walnut and truffle. A crystal clear celeriac broth elevates this into tasting menu territory, and the first spoonful strikes us like lightning. We get it - addition by subtraction. Nothing here is superfluous, and the whole is utterly delicious.
The cooking on every dish is pretty spot on, albeit with the help of some sous vide cooking, as some dishes are finished on a plancha in the open kitchen. Still, who can complain when a veal sweetbread is as beautifully cooked as this one, nestled on a slick of black onion puree with crunchy raw kohlrabi for garnish. We love the refinement and clarity of a seafood medley - lobster, squid, clams and winkles - brought together in their own little pool of kelp broth, with a dusting of sea urchin granita. It’s clever, but not at the expense of great flavour.
Accompanying wines are well chosen, too, and at £115 a head, this voyage is definitely worth the price of travel. We only wish the room had a little more life, because Adam’s cooking certainly deserves it.