Looking every centimetre the classic French brasserie, but boasting a thoroughbred British menu, this restaurant within St Pancras International is born out of the best of London and Paris: a true culinary entente cordiale. Warm woods and brass fittings form the backdrop, with smartly clad staff delivering equally smart food. There’s always plenty of shellfish, from rock oysters to scallops; otherwise start with something warming – Dorset crab Waldorf salad, say. Mains continue the patriotic theme (chicken and leek pie, and 45-day aged rib of beef) and even breakfast takes its cue from this side of the Channel: think yoghurt with spiced pear and smoked salmon. Only the one-page wine list makes the return trip to the Continent, with a French-led selection plus a smattering of bottles from elsewhere.