Roganic
Roganic
Roganic
Roganic
Roganic
Roganic
Roganic
Roganic
Roganic
Roganic
Roganic
Roganic
Roganic
Roganic
Roganic
Roganic
Roganic
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SquareMeal Review of Roganic

Gold Award

Simon Rogan has had a busy year with two new London openings. He has diversified his London offering, first with chef’s table Aulis in Soho, and now with this resurrection of his much-lauded pop up Roganic, which ran for two years in 2011 and takes some elements from the chef’s two Michelin-starred L’Enclume. Roganic’s focus is on supremely fresh ingredients, often sourced from Rogan’s own farm in Cumbria, with head chef Oliver Marlow (part of the original Roganic line-up) overseeing 10- and 14-course tasting menus of dainty but dynamic plates.

 

Everything we tried was near perfect, from the intensely creamy starting snack of a preserved raspberry tart rooted with an earthy beetroot base, to a dessert of apple slices caramelised into a bundle of sweetness that is almost too pretty to eat. More unconventional dishes include ice-cold scallops which first freeze the mouth before giving way to a topping of sour apple and gooseberry chunks, and a ramekin of unassuming-looking custard, which surprises with its savoury, saline notes of seaweed and caviar. The only dud is the dry-aged duck that is hyped up with a tableside visit from Marlow, but turned up minus the super-crispy skin we were promised.

 

France leads the European-focused wine list (good luck finding much below £45), while wine flights are supplemented by a dozen by-the-glass options, and there are also Cumbrian beers and gin. Service is positively warm and friendly. The restaurant’s understated interior (complete with 80s-style cane Cesca chairs) may not be to all tastes – not least given the not-very-understated prices – but Roganic excels at remixing the fine-dining of old in an exciting, and most importantly delicious, way.

Good to know

Average Price
££££ - Over £80
Cuisines
British
Ambience
Fine dining, Quiet conversation

Location for Roganic

5-7 Blandford Street, Marylebone, London, W1U 3DB

0203 3706 6260

Website

Opening Times

Tues-Thurs 12N-2pm 6.30-9.15pm Fri-Sat 12N-1.30pm 5.30-9.15pm

Reviews of Roganic

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3 Reviews 
Food/Drink
Service
Atmosphere
Value

Paul A

Rogan at his best
11 January 2019  
The dining room was somewhat on the basic side, but we were soon put at our ease by the warmth of the welcome and we felt quite at home with the Hampshire pink fizz we selected from the wine list, the fizz going very well with the starter mouthful of pumpkin tart, the excellent light pastry married with a pear and pumpkin filling and fragrant bay leaf and accompanied by a refreshing pear and pumpkin juice, and the imaginative mushroom zabaglione with cured egg yolk and puffed rice which made a surprising change from run-of-the-mill snacks. The lead-in to the meal continued with a delightfully simple and really moreish dish of spelt crackers and sweet pickled mushrooms which set us up perfectly for chicken with crispy skin, pickled carrot and superb creamy smoked cod’s roe. A surprising creation of lamb pudding, super tasty crispy lamb belly with a hint of liquorice in the black garlic gel which had us licking our lips, and the excellent artichoke broth with quail egg yolk and swede that followed was accompanied by some top-notch home-made bread, which was not presented as an extra course unlike a certain two-star outfit we had recently dined in. Pork belly and pickled crackling with beetroot, kale and pine nuts might not come across as an exquisite exercise in striking visual and gustatory counterpoint, but this was just that, and the next dish of salt-baked celeriac, whey foam, and caramelised celeriac purée and crisps provided a surprising and perfectly conceived balance between the pork and the mackerel which came next, as well as being just the sort of course that would rank high on a veggie menu. The perfect mackerel, covered in a red cabbage cloak, had a wonderful sauce concocted from sea-fresh mussels and tapioca and was completed by a well-judged portion of kohlrabi. Beef came next, dry-aged local (Cumbrian) meat with an onion purée and beef cheek with luscious potato foam and spring onion giving a light and tasty contrast. The cheese course was Tunworth ice cream with a trompette mushroom powder dusting, a caviar topping and cranberry sauce making the difference between a good dish and an outstanding one. The dessert was a chamomile cream, the full taste of which subtly crept up on the palate and was reinforced by a verjus gel and some poached pear and pine nut praline crumble. The one slight negative came right at the end of the meal in the form of a less than generous serving of mint tea which was not fully compensated for by the delightful petits fours of smoked juniper fudge and pine nut gel. Having been to all Simon Rogan’s previous establishments on a number of occasions, we felt that we had a pretty good idea of what style of food to expect here. We were quite wrong. This was a move in a new and even more exciting direction with the deft development of curing and pickling techniques making for a plethora of superb and unexpected new combinations of tastes and textures. There is now no need to trek all the way to Cumbria for a full hit of Roganic excellence.
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M Stead

l'enclume in London?
20 March 2018  
Oh hello Simon Rogan, nice to see you again. We've had our ups and downs, haven't we. I love l'enclume, one of the best dining experiences I've ever had, and I'd put it up there with the Fat Duck. But Fera... My gateway into Michelin star restaurants, we never really got on since our first time have we...? The space is very much like l'encume when you enter, paired down and not nearly as ornate as Fera, there's no stained glass window in the ceiling here, but more the greys and browns I'd associate with Simon Rogan, very earthy. We are greeted by a very bubbly maître d' who welcomes us and we start with a glass of champagne. We are informed that there's just the tasting menu on tonight. All 19 courses of it. I undo a belt notch. We order the wine pairing too, I don't have the wine knowledge to be able to pick something to complement even one course, let alone 19, I usually leave this to the experts. Now for the courses... I'm not going to run through all 19, I'd be here forever, but the standout ones for me are the seaweed custard, the salt baked celeriac, something I really need to learn how to cook, the dry aged duck, a thing of beauty, and when my dining companion asks if it's better than hers the answer is a resounding yes (sorry Alexa...) she totally agrees. Desserts are also great, but I'm a savoury fan. Though I am going through a rhubarb phase at the minute... We get a lovely breakfast goodie bag for the morning, but after 19 courses we won't be eating for a while... Maybe 3 or 4 days or so... I'll be back to see you here, I'd rank it among the best in London, and certainly up there with my favourites of Pollen Street Social and Bibendum. It doesn't quite have the feel of l'enclume, understandable considering it's not based in a tiny village in the Lake District surrounded by countryside, but it's certainly the London version. L'enclume: The London Edition.
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David H

Food as good as ever. Premises unspectacular
04 February 2018  
We've eaten Simon Rogan's food at the pop-up a few years back and since then at Fera and at L'Enclume. Probably fair to say that if we had to pick a single restaurant for a meal to remember, then at any time these last five years it would have been one of his. I haven't really got much to say about the food at this Roganic, for there were no surprises . Ingredients were spectacularly fresh and tasty, cooked to their maximum potential. Combinations that you might at first think "that won't work" and you pretty much always find that it does, and quite beautifully at that. The restaurant had only been open a week or so when we turned up, and we were ready to forgive any minor hiccup resulting from the place bedding in. But no need; it was great form from the outset helped I believe that many of the kitchen and front of house staff are veterans of the pop-up and other Rogan restaurants. I do though want to pass comments on the restaurant itself. When you walk through the rather odd entrance to Fera you're almost overwhelmed my the quality and opulence of the room you've walked into. At L'Enclume there's no opulence, but there's a palpable stylishness about the stone walls and wooden furniture, and the latter is particularly beautifully made. At the pop-up no-one had expectations as it was common knowledge it wouldn't be there long. The new Roganic did I'm afraid remind me of a chinese restaurant, 1970's style. The structure, layout, decoration and furnishings seemed to me to be at odds with the the quality of food and service and innovation emerging from the kitchen. My guess is that there will be people, who having looked forward to a very special occasion and are now looking at a bill of maybe £250 for two, will be somewhat disappointed at the environment in which they sat for a couple of hours . Maybe some people will not think that the food's great (it is) so it doesn't much matter what the place is like. Maybe they expect some synergy between the food, the place and the bill? Won't deter us, & in fact we have another reservation for next month. But there is a notable dissonance here. I would also have appreciated a few more bottles at the lower end of the wine list.
Food & Drink
Service
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Value

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