Upmarket wine bar Clarette occupies a landmark mock-Tudor pile that was once The William Wallace pub – hence the beautiful stained-glass depictions of Scottish-town coats of arms in both the art-deco salon and first-floor bar. Clarette is co-owned by one of Bordeaux’s Château Margaux dynasty, who has helped stuff the extensive wine list with stellar (and costly) French vintages. Grand vins from Margaux fetch four-figure sums, and vie for attention with brilliant big-ticket Burgundies. Fortunately, you can also find perky Pays d’Oc Viognier at pub prices, and the house Champagne (Pierre Péters) isn’t destructively expensive, while Coravin selections by the glass (classy 2013 Condrieu, for instance) also keep the bill down. Decamp to the pubby ground-floor room or the heated terrace for classic cocktails, cheeses, charcuterie and more substantial dishes such as braised octopus with capers, olives and tomatoes.