Alsace: The quiet hero behind every good wine list

From dry, racy Riesling to the exuberant spice of Gewurztraminer, Alsace wines have a knack for making food sing. We asked four sommeliers and GMs to take one style each – pairing the style classically with something from their menu, matching it with something unexpected, and finally with something you might whip up at home. The results were fascinating, delicious and typical of a region that boasts hugely talented winemakers who turn out a wide wide range of high quality bottles (particularly white) that are often vastly undervalued. They also deliver purity and versatility that other wine regions can only dream of.

And why is it that sommeliers talk about Alsace as being a sure thing? In short, these are wines that can handle spice, fat, salt, and a huge saucepan of kitchen flair.

This small stretch of vineyards, tucked along France’s eastern border and nestled behind the Vosges mountain range, enjoy a sheltered microclimate, low in rainfall and high in sunshine – all key ingredients for producing quality bottles that often taste riper than their Burgundian or German equivalents.

Alsace wines are staples in restaurants because they offer exceptional food-friendliness, versatility and character, which make them ideal for pairing with a wide range of cuisines. They’ve got the finesse chefs love, the structure to stand up to bold flavours, and the charm to make even Tuesday-night leftovers taste fit for a king.

What makes them so irresistible is balance. Alsace wines have this clean, confident precision – aromatic and expressive but never overbearing. They are often rich without being heavy. They bring lift and clarity to food, a kind of sparkle that keeps dishes (and diners) alive and curious.

And what of our sommelier challenge? The results were nothing short of a masterclass in why Alsace doesn’t just make great wine, it makes life taste better. Together their recommendations tell the story of why Alsace is a consistent super star in the restaurant world: built to elevate the dining experience and always up for a little adventure. And they’re just as thrilling at home – a glass of Riesling with grilled prawns, a Gewurztraminer to give glamour to a spicy takeaway curry or a chilled Crémant with popcorn and a movie. Read on to learn more.

Riesling

Riesling is the region’s super-star. Forget any notions of sweetness. Alsace Riesling is dry, crisp, and razor-sharp, the kind of wine that slices neatly through buttery sauces or rich pork belly. Sommeliers adore it for its flexibility: it’s equally at home with oysters or shellfish, chicken liver paté or spicy Thai noodles. Bright, brisk, and endlessly refreshing, it’s the culinary equivalent of a squeeze of lemon, only far more sophisticated.

Virginia Fontò, Head Sommelier of Galvin La Chapelle: “I love Alsatian Riesling, because of their concentration of flavours and richness. Riesling, Domaine Bruno Sorg, Alsace 2022 is one of the top sellers in our by-the-glass selection. It has a beautiful combination of zest and citrus notes, accompanied by minerality. They are based in the heart of Grand Cru Pfersigberg.”

Virginia's Classic Pairing: “Scottish scallop crudo, cobnut, buddha’s hand with Riesling, Bruno Sorg, Alsace 2022. The acidity and minerality of the Riesling help to complement the vinegary flavour and the citrus aroma of the dish, and cut through the ‘oily’ texture of the fish.” 

Virginia's Unusual Pairing: “Regal Oyster, guanciale, finger lime with Riesling, Bruno Sorg, Alsace 2022. This is my unexpected pairing as the dish contains guanciale and lardo. It is the higher residual sugar in the Riesling that helps to soften the saltiness of those two ingredients, and provides a great match.”

Virginia's At Home Pairing: “When it comes to cured or raw fish, Alsace Riesling is always the answer. Its bright acidity cuts through the flesh of the fish, without masking the delicate flavours. Add in a simple tomato salad with croutons, balsamic vinegar and a couple of basil leaves and enjoy the beautiful complexity unfold on your palate.”

Book now: Galvin La Chapelle

Gewurztraminer

Gewurztraminer (without any umlaut on the “u,” because it’s 100% Alsatian, so 100% French) is the extrovert of the bunch. One swirl and the glass bursts with lychee, rose and spice. A touch of sweetness and plenty of perfume make it a natural partner for big flavours – Indian curries, duck with hoisin, a full range of Thai dishes or blue cheese that’s not for the fainthearted. Packed with flavour, fragrance and flair, it’s the wine that walks into a room (or a dish) and refuses to be ignored, and somehow it always finds harmony in the chaos.

Dan Illsley (Wine Buyer Maison François, Café François): “Gewurztraminer is much misunderstood and even maligned not least by some wannabe experts who should know better. However, the aromatic charge of the grape is exciting, so stop being such a prude with your buttoned up, starchy, neutral, so-called mineral whites. Customers love it if you’d only let them get near it. Viva aromatic whites. Your time has come.”

Dan's Classic Pairing: “Gewurztraminer and Curry. We serve a mildly hot but intensely aromatic Vadouvan curry with a meaty tranche of monkfish, and for this I’ve matched it with Gewurztraminer, Domaine Rolly Gassmann. His biodynamic Gewurz is off dry, opulent and full of exotic ginger, cumin, and jasmine notes. The sauce is creamy although not thick, so the balance is perfect.” 

Dan's Unusual Pairing: The same Gewurztraminer and our Merguez flatbread will blow your socks off. Our spicy moroccan sausage meat is really fiery and the sweetness and oiliness of the wine together with the oriental scents of the flatbread will put you in a hedonistic trance. As in the adage ‘sugar and spice and all things nice’, heat and unction are great bedfellows. Sharp, thin and very dry or tannic wines generally jar with hot spice. 

Dan's At Home Pairing: A bottle of Gewurz is so well constituted it can last well in the fridge once open.  A little goes a long way and after a long day a glass of Gewurztraminer with a pungent washed rind cheese is a little bit of heaven. The typical Alsace combo is with Munster, sometimes sprinkled with cumin seeds.

Book now: Maison François

Pinot Gris

Pinot Gris, meanwhile, is the quiet power player. Forget the light, easy-drinking Pinot Grigio you know, Alsace Pinot Gris brings texture, smoke, and richness. It’s a dream with smoked salmon, creamy mushroom risotto or roasted poultry, but it also has the range to swing sweet or savoury. Sommeliers love it as a wine that can gracefully carry a tasting menu from scallops to veal to caramelized squash. It’s generous, golden, and just a little indulgent.

Matthieu Germonde (Owner-Manager, Noizé): “Pinot Gris is one of the difficult grapes to understand. We start with the name, which used to be Tokay Pinot Gris and can be Pinot Grigio in other countries. It’s so hard to vinify, and it’s difficult to get the balance between ripeness and sugar. It can be too green or overly rich and sweet. But when it’s good, it’s great!”

Matthieu's Classic pairing: “From our menu this has to be fresh white and brown crab meat pasta, with a dry fish sauce and marinated tomato. For the match I’ve selected a Pinot Gris, Rosenberg, Domaine Barmes-Buecher 2022 from our list. Barmes Buecher is one of the estates who are creating great Pinot Gris – both dry and lively with texture, too. The slightly bitter finish with grapefruit touches will cut the sweet creamy side of the dish.”

Matthieu's Unusual pairing: “Breast of pheasant, trompette de la mort, Brussels sprouts, chestnut and smoked bacon velouté. Pinot gris is one of those grapes who have ripe tannins and enough body for white game. So, with the same Barmes-Buecher wine try this pairing to understand why it is a great match.”

Matthieu's At home pairing: “For me, it’s got to be a selection of cheeses. The Pinot Gris works, more or less with all cheeses. Its lovely oily texture and abundance of yellow fruits can match the strong side of cheeses like Munster and Epoisse. And it’s perfect with creamy blue cheeses.”

Book now: Noizé

Crémant d’Alsace

Crémant d’Alsace is the sparkling overachiever. Made in the same method as Champagne (without the Champagne price tag), it’s bright, elegant, and full of delicate bubbles that add sparkle to any occasion. Expect aromas of crisp green apple, white peach, and a whisper of brioche, followed by a palate that’s zesty, refreshing, and beautifully balanced. With its fine mousse and subtle notes of citrus and almond, it’s not only the perfect aperitif – there’s always an excuse to open something bubbly ‘just because’ – it’s also a versatile friend with food, pairing with everything from sushi and tempura to pizza.

Lais Aoki Head Sommelier, Sager + Wilde: The Crémant d’Alsace Extra Brut 2022 at Sager and Wilde comes from Lucas & André Rieffel, a family-run domaine in the north of Alsace, now led by Lucas Rieffel, who continues the estate’s commitment to organic farming and low-intervention winemaking. From a blend of Riesling and Auxerrois, this wine is aged on its lees to develop texture while maintaining its characteristic purity. So precise, it offers vibrant acidity and a fine, persistent perlage, with lifted citrus, green apple, and subtle floral notes leading to a clean, mineral-driven finish.

Lais' Classic pairing: For a classic, elegant pairing, fresh oysters on the half shell are perfect. Sparkling wine and oysters is a timeless combination, the Crémant’s bright acidity and fine bubbles lift the oysters’ clean, briny freshness, while its citrus and mineral notes echo the salinity of the sea. The wine’s delicate texture complements the silky oyster beautifully. Simply served with a squeeze of lemon or a gentle mignonette. The fresh sea breeze brings back those pleasant memories of holidays.

Lais' Unusual pairing: A really fun and unexpected pairing with this Crémant is fried chicken with yuzu-kosho mayo. Sparkling wine and fried food is a cult favourite among sommeliers. The bubbles and acidity cleanse the palate after each crunchy, juicy bite, cutting beautifully through the crispy coating and richness of the chicken. The yuzu-kosho brings a gentle citrus heat that plays perfectly with the wine’s bright, mineral freshness, keeping everything lifted and vibrant. A playful, quietly brilliant pairing.

Lais' At home pairing: At home, don’t worry about “perfect” pairings. Have fun with comfort food. A surprisingly delicious match for Crémant is a grilled cheese with caramelised onions and a touch of Dijon. The wine’s bright acidity and fine bubbles cut through the rich, melty cheese and buttery toast, keeping each bite fresh. The sweetness of the onions mirrors the wine’s subtle floral and savoury complexity, while the Dijon adds a little lift that plays beautifully with its citrus-driven profile. It’s playful, irreverent, and proof that great wine doesn’t always need a fancy dish. 

Book now: Sager + Wilde

Restaurants with good Alsace wine selections

Clockwise from top left: Trinity, Cloth, Antidote, Planque

Antidote: Convivial, Soho wine bar that strikes a balance between warmth and sophistication. Its low-intervention list celebrates growers who let the vineyard speak, including lively Rieslings, textured Pinot Blancs, and the occasional skin-contact gem that shows the region’s modern edge.

Brawn: Ed Wilson’s effortlessly relaxed wine bar is a haven for natural, sustainable, and biodynamic wines – with Alsace’s light shining brightly among them. Expect crystalline Rieslings, textured Pinot Gris, and expressive Sylvaners, all packed with personality.

City Social: Jason Atherton’s classy City outpost delivers a masterclass in refined dining with top-flight wines and skyline views to match. The menu’s precision and polish echo the finesse of Alsace itself, with plenty of elegant, expressive wines from the region to choose from.

Cloth: Newish, thriving wine-led bar and restaurant conceived by wine importers Joe Haynes & Ben Butterworth and chef Tom Hurst. Low ceilings, wood panelling and vintage touches add character. Plenty of skin-contact wines from Alsace, made with Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer, from producers such as Vincent Gross and Pierre Frick.

Core by Clare Smyth: Great representations of Riesling and Gewurztraminer and some exciting Grand Cru Rieslings, including a noteworthy Riesling Grand Cru Clos Saint Urbain, Zind Humbrecht 1987.

Galvin La Chapelle: A magnificent former chapel in Spitalfields is the grand setting for extraordinarily fine, classic French cuisine and some equally polished service. A refined wine list complements the technical craft in the kitchen. Watch out for Bruno Sorg’s classy Riesling from the heart of Grand Cru Pfersigberg, Rolly Gassmann’s biodynamic Gewurz, as well as an equally well-grafted Pinot Gris from Domaine Muré.

The Glenturret Lalique: Great list of Alsace wines – from Pinot Gris to Gewurztraminer – but particularly strong in Riesling from many of the top names, priced largely between a very reasonable £50 and £90.

Maison François: A slick, high-end St James’s brasserie where the classics shine—especially the rotisserie chicken. Service is smooth, the atmosphere lively, and the beautifully annotated wine list first-rate. Besides the Rolly Gassmann Gewurz (featured above), you’ll find a good choice of other expressive, aromatic Alsace wines including a flight of classy Rieslings from Domaine Weinbach.

Noble Rot: The newest outpost of the beloved group feels right at home in Shepherd Market. The joyous wine list leans towards Alsace, with standout Rieslings and an impressive Grand Cru Gewurztraminer from Weinbach.

Clockwise from top left: Orrery, The Glenturret Lalique, Maison François, Brawn

Noize: Overseen by Mathieu Germond, Noizé’s charm lies in the effortless pairing of comforting, seasonal French cooking with a wine list that boasts plenty to tempt the curious palate - from reasonably priced house wines to a fine wine list, as well as a modest corkage fee on its BYO policy. The Alsace selections truly sing: elegant, aromatic wines that mirror the restaurant’s understated sophistication.

Orrery: Elegant evergreen that ticks the boxes for style and gastronomic living, while also delivering a nice range of Alsace wines, including a Grand Cru Pinot Gris (2017) and Riesling (2018) from Cave de Turckheim, both at reasonable prices.

Planque: A self-styled clubhouse for wine enthusiasts and the perfect spot for adventurous drinkers looking to explore new horizons—think standout Alsace Rieslings, expressive Gewurztraminers, and sparkling Crémant.

Ploussard: A welcoming newish neighbourhood bistro serving honest, well-executed French classics. The compact but well-curated wine list nods to Alsace with a few standout bottles.

Sager + Wilde: Sager + Wilde is the destination urban wine bar where knowledge and beautiful sourcing is a given. All the key Alsace references are here including Crémant d’Alsace, an affordable answer to Champagne, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Sylvaner and Gewurztraminer.

St John: Drinking is always a pleasure at this nose-to-tail temple, where its French-focused wine list offers Alsace Crémant and Riesling as well as classic examples of Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer – both from Gerard Metz – by the glass.

Trinity: A notable range of Rieslings, Gewurztraminers and Pinot Blancs are served at Clapham favourite, Trinity, but it is The Zind-Humbrecht Grand Cru Riesling and Famille Hugel Gewurztraminer Vendage Tardive that caught our eye – both on the by-the-glass list.

Retailer Stockists

Alsace wines are widely available from quality retailers, as below: The Sourcing Table | Laithwaites | Virgin Wines | Majestic | Waitrose

Learn more about this hidden gem wine making region with our complete guide to Alsace wines. Or, visit Alsace Wines' social media platforms for more information. IG: @WinesOfAlsace | FB: AlsaceWinesOfficial | YT: WinesofAlsace | X: @AlsaceWines | WB: www.VinsAlsace.com