MEATliquor SW4

What started as a humble MEATwagon has snowballed into a MEATempire, and with sites all over the country, cofounder Scott Collins show no signs of slowing down. This particular venture, however, is more than a hedonistic burger haven - it’s kind of a pub too.

As you enter, and the heavenly meat vapours make your stomach growl, you will notice that you can barely see. That’s because the red lighting is so dim it’s as if the burgers are being developed on film. Travelling further into this diner-cum-darkroom, you might notice table football and pool tables, reserved for those who can still move after their meal. Those with keener eyesight can take in the pseudo-American paraphernalia lining the walls while smiling staff seal fates with their succulent suggestions.

Wanting to save as much room as possible, starting with a Negroni seemed logical. MEATLiquor’s was perfect - not too bitter but packed a punch. Subsequently forgetting to save room for the burgers, we ordered a portion of onion rings and hash browns to start. While the latter was bang-on, it was the unbelievably crunchy onion rings that we fell in love with.

The famous Dead Hippie burger and matching fries are best suited to pickle and mustard enthusiasts - which we certainly are. The portions are huge, as they should be given the price (£10+ for a burger no fries). The Tower Block chicken burger was a step further, featuring fried chicken breast, cheese, jalapenos and another hash brown. As we felt meat juice, cheese and the excellent dead hippie sauce course through our veins, we thought it best to wash it all down with some House Grog. The grog was little more than three different rums shaken over ice, just what the doctor ordered.

Actually, your doctor would probably tell you to steer clear altogether. But we’re telling you, this is a killer place for a MEATup.

10 years since they opened their first ever restaurant, the latest instalment in the MEATliquor empire is their Clapham Old Town site. Plonked a two-minute walk from Clapham Common Station, it's just about far enough from the bustling pavements of the highstreet that are interminably awash with young Claphamites.

With no two sites the same, a concept that is now synonymous with the brand, the interior of MEATliquor Old Town is unique in design. Peppered with acid house references and eclectic artwork, there's something about its anti-design that's so bad it's good. Occuping a sizeable space, the restaurant is divided into various sections: have a drink with a friend at one of their many bar stool stations, get cosy in a corner booth or rally the troops and book one of their big bench tables for a get-together. There's also an outdoor seating area at the back, for when the sun decides to show face. A pool table, giant projector and photobooth are all fitting finishing touches. At capacity, expect volume levels and good vibes to be high. 

As for the food, well, it does what it says on the tin. Meat appears in the form of epic beef burgers, chicken 'inna bun' and loaded hot dogs. They're all outrageous of course: the Dead Hippie burger involves a French mustard-fried double beef patty, Dead Hippie Sauce, American cheese, white onions and all the salad trimmings, while the Tower Block chicken burger is stuffed with slaw, jalapenos and a hash brown. 

You can even take part in the triple chilli challenge: eat three burgers in under 10 mintues to receive them for free. Compete at your own peril...

There are vegan and vegetarian options, too, from a Tempeh Tantrum burger to buns filled with halloumi or satan. You'll probably pay over a tenner for a burger, and once you've included fries and a drink, are edging closer to the £20 mark. Their Monday-Friday lunch deal is more appealing though, which includes a burger, fries and a drink for £12.50 (you can order to go if you like).

Oh, and they do boozy milkshakes. MEATliquor might not be for everyone, but they sure know how to have a good time.