Launched as part of Trinity’s new look, Upstairs is altogether more casual than the smart restaurant below. Tall sharing tables, comfortable stools, buzzy background music and an open kitchen make a relaxed setting for a daily changing small-plates menu that showcases chef Adam Byatt’s mastery of complex flavours and textures. Classic vitello tonnato is sprinkled with nuggets of crackling; freshly barbecued squid is pointed up with vibrant gremolata and zesty green-chilli mayo; pink slivers of duck breast contrast with the dark sweetness of warm dates, topped by crunchy toasted buckwheat. Byatt’s attention to detail transforms even simple dishes into superstars: crispy zucchini fritti arrive with a delicious dollop of creamed pecorino; waxy Cornish new potatoes are given a Japanese makeover with velvety seaweed butter. To finish, soft salted caramel ice cream is superb; characterful wines on tap are another highlight. Add amiable service for a package that’s hard to resist.