My favourite restaurants: Taz Sarhane

When he took the helm of Cycene in 2024, Taz Sarhane was just 28 years old. That may seem relatively young for a man now heading up one of London's signature fine dining experiences, but Sarhane has a mature head on his shoulders, both professionally and philosophically. Front and centre as soon as you enter the restaurant, he speaks with grace and maturity about the direction he wants to take the restaurant, the importance of foraging, of focusing on hyper-seasonal produce, and of making guests feel like they are eating in someone's home. 

Himself a keen forager and clearly a food obsessive, this conversation comes very naturally to Sarhane, as he gently prepares the first few bites of a 10 course odyssey that sees guests travel from bar, to kitchen, to dining room, over three floors of the beautiful Blue Mountain School townhouse in Shoreditch. Born and raised in south east London to British-Moroccan parents, Sarhane's life has always been closely in touch with food at its source, and he still forages regularly in his free time. 

Despite his relative young age, he also boasts a considerable professional pedigree. His early career started alongside Nicholas Balfe at Levan, before Sarhane entered the world of true fine dining, working with Claude Bosi at Bibendum, and helping to open and win two Michelin stars at Brooklands. He has also more recently worked at genre-bending contemporary counter dining spot The Sea The Sea, which is now sadly closed. 

A well-travelled London native at the forefront of one of the capital's most influential new-school restaurants, we were intrigued to see where Taz Sarhane spends his downtime when he's hungry! His picks didn't disappoint, including an ever-busy Chinatown dim sum diner, a pair of acclaimed destination restaurants in Somerset, and a beloved inn in distant Fife.

Beijing Dumpling, London

Taz says: ‘An excellent late night spot in Chinatown - amazing Xiao Long Bao, generous portions and quick service. As the name suggests, their speciality is dim sum (with all dumplings handmade on the premises in front of you) but there is in fact a full Cantonese menu available. My firm favourite is Dan Dan noodles. There is no pretence here. It’s low-fi dining at its very best, rough around the edges with a focus on the vibe and the food. The long queue to get in tells you everything you need to know.’
Where: 23 Lisle Street, WC2H 7BA
Book now: Beijing Dumpling

The Peat Inn, Fife

Taz says: 'An elevated dining experience close to St Andrews, serving classic food done very, very well. An amazing example of Scottish produce with heavy French technique. They have been serving food uninterruptedly for 250 years, and at a great price point. The front of house are warm and welcoming, giving homely hospitality with an incredible selection of the finest Scottish whisky. The perfect re-entry into civilisation after a weekend of roaming around the Scottish Highlands camping, foraging and cooking on fire.'
Where: Peat Inn Hamlet, St Andrews, KY15 5LH
Book now: The Peat Inn

Tayyabs, London

Taz says: 'Amazing Pakistani and Indian food, with sharing dishes, and of course BYOB. Great for parties and catching up with friends. But avoid Thursday nights, as it gets packed with the city boys. Order lots of dishes to share and try everything. The lamb dal gosht is a highlight.'
Where: 83-89 Fieldgate Street, Aldgate, E1 1JU
Book now: Tayyabs

Osip, Somerset

Taz says: 'Farmyard refinement at its best. Clean presentation, white crockery and beautiful manipulation of local produce so that you can really taste the quality of the ingredients. I love the aesthetic, it’s relaxed and hospitable and easy to enjoy. Perfect for a few days away, great farm shops in the local area and Hauser and Wirth for exhibitions and events.'
Where: 25 Kingsettle Hill, Hardway, Bruton, BA10 0LN
Book now: Osip

Holm, Somerset

Taz says: 'One of my first chefs' personal ventures, this old bank turned restaurant is home to the best of British produce. In the middle of cider country this great restaurant, along with its beautiful rooms, is the perfect getaway for a weekend away. Amazing pork and beef often feature on the menu, alongside quirky local produce. You can often also find a delicious tart on the menu.'
Where: 28 St James Street, South Petherton, TA13 5BW
Book now: Holm

Read more of our recent interviews with the UK's top chefs. Read our interview with the UK's first black, female chef Adejoké Bakare, and find out where chefs like Vivek Singh, Nuno Mendes and Paul Ainsworth like to eat.