Gold Award

SquareMeal Review of Brat

Gold Award

'Brat' is the Northumbrian vernacular for a turbot but it’s also a knowing wink from Tomos Parry. The Welshman won the Young British Foodie Chef of the Year award in 2014, wowed in his first head chef gig at Kitty Fisher’s in Mayfair and then opened his first solo restaurant in a former strip club in Shoreditch, with a logo which blends Celtic and Basque typefaces.

While Kitty Fisher’s had David Cameron as its most famous regular, now it’s the likes of fashion designer Henry Holland and a nightly brigade of Parry’s curious chef peers (Fergus Henderson and Jeremy Lee on our original visit) trouping up the stairs above Smoking Goat to see what all the fuss is about.

The house speciality turbot (for 2 or 3 people) is cooked Basque-style in an iron cage over a wood grill until the flesh is almost melting. And with more rave reviews than?Hamilton?it’s easy to understand why getting a table is still far from easy.

Some may find the workshop machismo of cooking with fire in plain view a tad preposterous, but there’s no quibbling with a menu that is simple but unfussy and majors in first class raw materials that push new boundaries of flavour and are cooked with precision, balance and understated class.

While some of the flavours are entirely new and cutting edge, others are happy memories from Kitty Fisher’s, although these may no longer be constants on the menu. One bite of Tomos’s seminal smoked cod’s roe, piped on to a finger of toast like a savoury éclair, tells you how carefully he has sourced and conceived his dishes, and you’ll be enchanted by the delicate grilled breads slathered with oily and intensely flavoured anchovies or wild garlic and Spenwood (hard sheep’s cheese). Even a potentially opinion-dividing dish of Hake Kokotxas (the neck of the fish), in the tastiest of sauces, comes off with daring panache, while oysters, roasted to draw out their sweetness and topped with pickled seaweed, are a delight.

A nice range of fairly priced cocktails puts you in the mood for the occasion of it all. The wine list has 30 wines by the glass, including seven sherries, while a lively, textured and wonderfully complex Tantaka from Spain is typical of the wider fascination on the wine list proper.

The premises are simple but caressing, with pendant moon lights bathing the room in a gleaming warmth that bounces off brickwork, panelling and exposed ducting, while a grand view of Shoreditch through tall, Crittall windows adds a convivial romance.

The blurring of kitchen and dining room feels completely democratic, as do the eating counter and tables packed so closely they may as well be a communal bench, while beautifully orchestrated service from a flotilla of young, engaged staff demonstrates passion for food (and good drinks) and is measured, genuine and infectious. The atmosphere continues to crackle at that febrile pitch with diners who know they are in one of London’s hottest restaurants.

Good to know

Average Price
££££ - £50 - £79
Cool, Cosy, Fun, Lively, Romantic
One Michelin star, SquareMeal London Top 100
Food Occasions
Dinner, Lunch
Special Features
Counter dining, Vegetarian options
Perfect for
Celebrations, Dates, Romantic, Special occasions
Food Hygiene Rating


Brat is a Michelin-starred restaurant in Shoreditch, housed within a former strip club and headed up by chef Tomos Parry. Brat is largely based around applying the techniques of Basque cooking to British produce with a focus on wood-fired cooking, while also celebrating the Welsh ingredients and food experiences that Parry holds so dear (the chef hails from Wales originally). The restaurant gained its Michelin star within six months of opening, which says a lot about the calibre of cooking here.  

Diners are immediately alerted to the restaurant’s main focus on cooking with fire thanks to a huge grill taking up a wall of the open kitchen, designed to fill the restaurant with fantastic aromas when entering. The interiors are cosy, rustic and wood-heavy, with large paned windows and a traditional feel reminiscent of the seafood restaurants in Portugal.  

The food at Brat exemplifies simple cooking done well. The menu doesn’t give much away in its descriptions of each dish, and instead highlights the main ingredient used in each one. For example, starters include fresh chorizo, lamb chop, roasted cockles and spider crab with tomato, while mains feature John Dory, duck rice and sirloin with little else to identify the finished dish. The mains are designed to be ordered with sides though, with things like bread and burnt onion butter, smoked potatoes and grilled red peppers on offer to complete the meal. For dessert, look out for burnt cheesecake and pear, caramel cream and olive oil ice cream with fig.  

The wine list is incredibly generous and features wines from across Europe, from ‘easy drinkers’ and ‘classics’ to ‘off the beaten track’ options. Choose from red, white, rose and sparkling as well as sweet wines and sherry.


Does it have a Michelin star?

Yes, it has one Michelin star.

Helpful? 0

Does it have a dress code?

Yes, it operates a smart casual dress code.

Helpful? 0

Who is the head chef?

Currently the leading chef is Tomos Parry.

Helpful? 0


4 Redchurch Street, Shoreditch, London, E1 6JL

Opening Times

Mon 12:00-14:30
Tue 12:00-14:30
Wed 12:00-14:30
Thu 12:00-14:30
Fri 12:00-14:30
Sat 12:00-15:30
Sun 12:00-15:30
Mon 17:30-22:00
Tue 17:30-22:00
Wed 17:30-22:00
Thu 17:30-22:00
Fri 17:30-22:00
Sat 17:30-22:00
Sun 17:30-22:00


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19 Reviews 

Mark D

02 January 2024  
Food & Drink 4.5
Service 5
Atmosphere 5
Value 4.5

A restaurant that sings with genuine hospitality warmth. Out of this world food, from signature smoked cod's roe and first rate John Dory through to unctuous but not overly rich olive oil ice cream. The room is a wonderful juxtaposition of warmth and crackling atmosphere but perhaps best of all is the charm and well-informed service.


27 December 2022  
Food & Drink 4.5
Service 4.5
Atmosphere 4.5
Value 4.5


Colin K

27 December 2022  
Food & Drink 4
Service 4
Atmosphere 4
Value 4

Excellent but not overly elaborate (thankfully) dishes and good for sharing. Only marked down because of their over zealousness for allergies almost ruined my guest's evening.

Haluk I

23 November 2022  
Food & Drink 5
Service 5
Atmosphere 5
Value 5

Great food, great service


23 November 2022  
Food & Drink 4.5
Service 4.5
Atmosphere 4.5
Value 4.5

Very unique in its cooking. Amazing skill leads to amazing flavours across meat, fish and vegetables in an atmosphere that is cosy and compelling 


23 November 2022  
Food & Drink 4.5
Service 4.5
Atmosphere 4.5
Value 4.5

Superb cooking on an open fire using fresh and seasonal ingredients complemented by informed and enthusiastic staff. Unusual wine selection as well as cordials made in-house make for an utterly perfect gastronomic experience. Giles Coren reviewed this restaurant and, similarly, rated it as perfection personified. The atmosphere of the restaurant makes it very difficult to leave and I'm sure you will, as we did, already be planning the next visit before you do.

Anila M

06 August 2019  
Came here for a special occasion and we had a fabulous meal. We were blown away by the food. The venue is really cool too. It's no wonder this restaurant is cited as one of the UK's best.

Arnon D

26 July 2019  
Great original food and ambiance.

Simon D

26 July 2019  
Great barbecued fish and good vibe. Wish I could go there more often.

Hugo G

09 July 2019  
A Galician inspired masterpiece with sensational British food in a stunning airy wood panelled dining room.
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