Brat

Gold Award
££££
British
Takeaway service

Brat
Brat
Brat
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SquareMeal Review of Brat

Gold Award

'Brat' is the Northumbrian vernacular for a turbot but it’s also a knowing wink from Tomos Parry. The Welshman won the Young British Foodie Chef of the Year award in 2014, wowed in his first head chef gig at Kitty Fisher’s in Mayfair and has opened his first solo restaurant in a former strip club in Shoreditch, with a logo whose font blends Celtic and Basque typefaces.

While Kitty Fisher’s had David Cameron as its most famous regular, now it’s the likes of fashion designer Henry Holland and a nightly brigade of Parry’s curious chef peers (Fergus Henderson and Jeremy Lee on our visit) trouping up the stairs above Smoking Goat to see what all the fuss is about.

The house speciality turbot is cooked Basque-style in an iron cage over a wood grill until the flesh is almost melting; it’s already had more rave reviews than Hamilton but is a struggle for two people to finish, so we went instead for smaller plates followed by a beef chop.

Some of the flavours were happy memories from Kitty Fisher’s – the smoked cod’s roe that is the perfection of taramasalata, piped on to a finger of toast like a savoury éclair; the almost gamey flavour of the beef – and some were new revelations: a sort of puffed-up naan bread slathered with oil, flecked with chives and draped with three intensely flavoured anchovies; oysters roasted to draw out their sweetness, topped with pickled seaweed.  

The flip side of the menu is printed with 35 wines by the glass, including seven sherries; there’s further fascination in the wine list proper. It is, without a doubt, very enjoyable cooking – Parry has an innate sense for how to extract the maximum natural flavour from high-quality ingredients – but what sets the place apart is the mood.

The blurring of kitchen and dining room feels completely democratic, as too the eating counter and tables packed so closely they may as well be a communal bench, while right now the atmosphere crackles at that febrile pitch of diners who know they are in one of London’s hottest restaurants.

True, some may find the workshop machismo of cooking with fire in plain view a tad preposterous (it reminded us of Henry VIII’s kitchens at Hampton Court), and the sight of fanboy diners queueing up to congratulate Parry is cringe-inducing. But, overall, we were captivated by the spectacle.

Good to know

Average Price
££££ - £50 - £79
Cuisines
British
Eat at Home
Takeaway service
Ambience
Cool, Fun, Lively
Other Awards
One Michelin star, SquareMeal London Top 100
Food Occasions
Dinner, Lunch
Special Features
Counter dining, Vegetarian options
People
Celebrations, Dates, Romantic, Special occasions
Food Hygiene Rating

Location for Brat

64 Shoreditch High Street, Shoreditch, London, E1 6JJ

Website

Opening Times

Tues-Sat 12N-3pm 6-11pm Sun 12N-5pm

Reviews of Brat

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13 Reviews 

Anila M

06 August 2019  
Came here for a special occasion and we had a fabulous meal. We were blown away by the food. The venue is really cool too. It's no wonder this restaurant is cited as one of the UK's best.

Arnon D

26 July 2019  
Great original food and ambiance.

Simon D

26 July 2019  
Great barbecued fish and good vibe. Wish I could go there more often.

Hugo G

09 July 2019  
A Galician inspired masterpiece with sensational British food in a stunning airy wood panelled dining room.

Anisha S

28 June 2019  
Amazing food - one of the best fish I have had, good drinks, service was average however it didn't take away from the meal. Good value for quality produce.

Shonagh P

28 June 2019  
Fabulous food and service.

Harpreet C

28 June 2019  
Great food and ambience.

Kelly S

28 June 2019  
Food amazing, ambience perfect, service great.

Anna D

10 April 2019  
Great food, imaginative combinations. Great ambiance.

Connie B

05 April 2019  
Amazing!!

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