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The brains behind Yashin Ocean House have achieved a remarkable feat, turning a site no restaurateur could previously get to work into one of London’s smarter and more imaginative purveyors of creative Japanese seafood. Dishes seem to get better year on year, and the only thing more commendable than the kitchen’s constant invention is the dedication to using all parts of the fish. Pan-fried cod cheeks in a sweet-and-sour chilli amazu sauce is a dish of blissful beauty, but honourable mentions should also go to the citrusy marinated grouper served in a bowl of Himalayan salt (so you can season it yourself), the perky chilli-laced octopus ceviche, the chargrilled eel and the exquisite sushi – our meltingly tender fatty tuna came topped with truffle shavings and perfectly pre-lacquered with soy. All of this theatre takes place in a high-ceilinged, handsome space built around a turquoise bar and manned by an army of knowledgeable, eager staff.
020 7373 3990
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