It’s one thing to open a successful restaurant in London; maintaining that success is another feat entirely. Jacob Kennedy has mastered the latter at Bocca di Lupo, his regional Italian trattoria that has been going strong for more than 15 years.
When it opened in 2008, the restaurant made waves with its marble counter dining, region-specific cooking and sharing-style small plates - a format that was relatively unfamiliar in London at the time. Fast forward to today, and regional Italian dishes are everywhere, small plates have become an unstoppable trend and the counter is now the hottest seat in the house. Yet Bocca di Lupo remains an institution, a pioneering restaurant that continues to set the standard for London's ever-rolling wave of new openings.
So, how did we get here? As an aspiring young chef, Jacob sought out a job at one of the city’s most influential restaurants, Moro. Here, he soaked up as much knowledge, skill and wisdom from founders Sam and Sam Clark as he possibly could, before heading stateside to work at Boulevard in San Francisco. With experience in two highly reputable kitchens, he began dreaming of opening his own place.
Italy has always been woven into Jacob’s story: it’s where his mother grew up, where his family spent their holidays, and where he later lived for a year. Bocca di Lupo was born out of his desire to bring the dishes he was eating in Italy back to London, complete with a trattoria dining experience, an impressive wine list and genuinely warm service. Needless to say the restaurant was a roaring success and has been ever since.
Jacob’s victory lap doesn’t stop there. Opposite Bocca di Lupo, he has a much-loved gelato shop, Gelupo, as well as a Michelin Bib-awarded gastropub in Islington. He is also the author of three fantastic cookbooks and a consultant to some of London’s top hospitality venues.
When he’s not behind the pass at one of his restaurants, or cooking at home for his husband David and their son Dylan, you might find Jacob eating out at one of his favourite restaurants. Here are his top contenders.
Manteca, Shoreditch
![whole grilled fish and battered chicken thigh]()
Jacob Kennedy says: 'I am continuously impressed by the diligence Chris Leach and his team show at Manteca when it comes to making their own salumi in house. It was something we started doing at Bocca di Lupo and I’m thrilled to see other restaurants doing the same. One of my favourite things I’ve eaten there was the pig skin ragù, served with crispy crackling to scoop it up. I was bereft when it was no longer on the menu on my third visit, but lo and behold I went off-menu and a bowlful appeared! Definitely a must-order if you see it on the menu.'
Where: 49-51 Curtain Road, EC2A 3PT
Book now: Manteca
Bottega Caruso, Margate
![beef carpaccio with parmesan and spaghetti with gremolata]()
Jacob Kennedy says: 'A miraculous gem in Margate. This tiny venue has such a small kitchen and serves food that's as authentically Campanian as you can find outside of Campania! It's not just in the ingredients (including some imported from the family's land in Campania and available in the deli next door) or the recipes, but also in the generosity, heart and soul of southern Italy. The osteria serves everything so proudly, and is the humblest and most wholesome cooking of the Benevento.'
Where: 2-4 Broad Street, CT9 1EW
Book now: Bottega Caruso
Mona Lisa Cafe, Chelsea
![traditional london cafe and fried mozzarella with tomato relish]()
Jacob Kennedy says: 'One of my favourite Italian greasy spoons in London, Mona Lisa serves the best garlic baked mushrooms, grilled sardines and chicken scaloppina, with the classic spaghetti Bolognese on the side. Honourable mentions in this category go to Scotti’s snack bar in Clerkenwell for a bacon sandwich and tortellini in brodo, and E. Pellici for cannelloni, chicken escalope and affogato.
Where: 417 King’s Road, SW10 0LR
Book now: Mona Lisa Cafe
Eusebi, Glasgow
![guests dining outside a deli and deli counter with homemade bread and pastries]()
Jacob Kennedy says: 'Funnily enough, every time I have been to Glasgow, the sun has shone. And nowhere does it shine brighter than in Giovanna Eusebi’s eatery - one of the many fruits of Glasgow’s surprisingly large and entrenched Italian population. The business operates both as a deli - selling groceries and take-home food prepared in-house - and a sophisticated, neighbourhood Italian restaurant, serving the sort of uncomplicated cooking from across the country all of us more or less want to eat every day.'
Where: 52 Park Road, G4 9HB
Book now: Eusebi
Trullo, Islington
![ragu pappardelle and steak with hand cut chips and house salad]()
Jacob Kennedy says: 'As an Islington local, I feel very lucky to have a restaurant like Trullo on my doorstep. They are always cooking with the best quality ingredients from all over Italy, pairing them with seasonal British produce - a meal there never fails to please. Padella, from the same team, has been paving the way when it comes to pasta restaurants in London and is equally joyous on every visit.'
Where: 300-302 St Paul's Road, N1 2LH
Book now: Trullo
For more recommendations from top chefs, discover the best restaurants as recommended by Kenny Atkinson, Tommy Banks and Leonard Tanyag. And if all this talk about Bocca di Lupo has got you dreaming of your next Italian dinner, check out our favourite Italian restaurants in London.