Trullo

Italian·
££££
·
Silver Award
·

SquareMeal Review of Trullo

Silver Award

Once one of London’s trendy young upstarts, Trullo has now settled into comfortable, respectable middle age. Lots of good restaurants get hurled off the capital’s increasingly chaotic merry-go-round, so it’s a testament to Trullo’s staying power that it remains packed on a Thursday evening. The menu is sophisticated and assured - even in London in 2024 it takes rock solid confidence to put bruschetta with calves' brains on your menu, and yet, there it is, cooked down in a pool of Marsala and wild garlic.

There’s no flash to the interiors either - Trullo is the ultimate in stripped-back minimalism, with timber floors and frames, and draped white tablecloths. St John without the whitewash, if you like. Huge street-side windows at the front make sure that the restaurant is bright and airy, even in the late evening. The acoustics aren’t fantastic but you might appreciate the buzz of a loud restaurant (even if it leaves you shouting a little louder than usual at your dining companion).

The menu, too, has something in common with St John and the hyper-seasonal, minimal movement that it ushered in. Great ingredients at their peak, paired with wonderful things. The antipasti is not your average assortment of cheese and charcuterie - there’s some wonderful cooking hiding here, like early season broad beans in a salad of butterleaf, mint and pecorino, and a whole quail, perfectly cooked and slathered in ‘nduja. Save room for excellent pasta dishes too - the beef shin pappardelle is still a must order, but on this occasion it’s eclipsed by a sensational pork and veal ragu fettuccine.

A chunky dish of cod, charred leeks and mussels was very much the sum of its parts and lacked the same joy as the rest, but by that point Trullo had already made a distinct impression. Come here, devour the antipasti and pasta, gulp down a slice of Amalfi lemon tart and a glass of flinty Col Fondo Prosecco and you might think you’ve found the best Italian restaurant in London.

Good to know

Average Price
££££ - £30 - £49
Cuisines
Italian
Ambience
Cool, Cosy, Dark and moody, Lively, Romantic, Traditional
Food Occasions
Dinner, Lunch
Special Features
Vegetarian options
Perfect for
Birthdays, Celebrations, Dates, Romantic, Special occasions
Food Hygiene Rating

About

Trullo is now known to many as the restaurant that birthed Padella. But this humble Islington trattoria is so much more. After all, incredible handmade pasta is just one of Trullo's many facets. This relaxed, buzzy space boasts enormous windows that flood the room with natural light. In the evening, the mood becomes a more romantic, low-lit setting. 

While the wine and service at Trullo continue to keep it in our favourite restaurants, the food here comes first. As such, it's best to go for all four courses here (antipasti, primi, mains, dessert). While the menu changes pretty much daily, there is a certain style of dish you can expect here. You might start the meal with some house sourdough (baked that morning) with Fiorano Estate olive oil, some burrata with datterini tomato crostini or even a chargrilled Norfolk quail with aioli. 

This, however, is just the beginning. The pasta at Trullo is without a doubt unmissable. Typically, there are around four or five options, all excellent. You could opt for the simplest of the simple - pici cacio e pepe. Or go classic with ricotta and sage ravioli, pappardelle with beef shin ragu or tagliarini with slow-cooked tomato sauce. 

The standard doesn't slip with the next course, where you can expect large cuts for sharing, usually grilled. You might see a 42-day aged Belted Galloway T-bone, or a whole Brixham brill, while a vegetarian option might be Florence fennel, porcini mushrooms and grilled radicchio and bitter leaves. Finish with an Amalfi lemon tart if you can manage it, and an affogato if you can't.

The wine list at Trullo is to the point, celebrating a wide range of Italian grapes, with plenty of bottles under the £40 mark. The wine list, like the food menu, changes regularly, making this a restaurant worth coming back to.


FAQs

Are there vegetarian options?

Yes, but most dishes feature meat or fish.

Helpful? 0

When did it open?

It opened in 2010.

Helpful? 0

Is the pasta handmade?

Yes.

Helpful? 0

This venue also offers

Trullo Wine Bar
Restaurant

Trullo Wine Bar

Trullo
Private Group Dining

Trullo

Location

300-302 St Paul's Road, Highbury, London, N1 2LH

020 7226 2733 020 7226 2733

Website

Opening Times

Lunch
Mon 12:30-15:00
Tue 12:30-15:00
Wed 12:30-15:00
Thu 12:30-15:00
Fri 12:30-15:00
Sat 12:30-15:00
Sun 12:30-15:00
Dinner
Mon 18:00-22:30
Tue 18:00-22:30
Wed 18:00-22:30
Thu 18:00-22:30
Fri 18:00-22:30
Sat 18:00-22:30
Sun 18:00-21:30

Reviews

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19 Reviews 
Food/Drink
Service
Atmosphere
Value

Anon

27 December 2022  
Food & Drink 4.5
Service 4.5
Atmosphere 4.5
Value 4.5

excellent

Anon

23 March 2022  
Food & Drink 5
Service 5
Atmosphere 5
Value 5

The quality, flavour and presentation of the dishes are thoroughly enhance that I do not have words to describe the delightful culinary experience I had there.

Patrizia C

06 August 2019  
Amazing fresh pasta.

Helene M

08 April 2019  
Excellent food, really good service and relaxed setting.

Darren L

29 March 2019  
Service, hospitality, space, quality of produce, amazing wine list, value for money.

Isabelle C

31 July 2018  
Although I am a fan of Italian food, I'm not sure an Italian restaurant would ever be my first choice when eating out. Trullo pulled me up by the collar, slapped me round the face and made sure I was never this dismissive again! Sitting downstairs in one of the cellar alcoves is an intimate and cosy way to spend an evening. The food is a master class in flavour, the staff are super knowledgeable about the menu and which wines will compliment each course. I still crave things I ate there nearly every day!

Amir S

11 July 2018  
Great italian.

Lesley T

28 June 2018  
Always excellent - choice, quality, service. Terrific fresh ingredients cooked inventively but without unnecessary fuss.

Kevin W

17 June 2017  
Excellent "local" restaurant, with short but inventive menu, good service and reasonable prices. Good wine list. Extremely handy for the Union Chapel!

Luisa R

09 May 2017  
Service, food and wine all excellent. General ambience of restaurant very pleasant.
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020 7226 2733 020 7226 2733

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